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Where does the temp gauge read when the car has been run for a while? A pressure test of the cooling system sure wouldn't hurt ;)

Run Mobil 1 Dex ATF in it as well...the syn ATF handles heat better.

I'm going to steal those pics if you don't mind ;) It's nice the way you have it set-up!

The temp sensor in that location is prone to heat soak...it will tell the VPC that the intake charge air is warmer than it actually is. That can cause a lean condition, but it should be across the power band. Try moving the Response Time clockwise to 1 o'clock...Gain to the 10 o'clock...

Where is the ISCV air source on the Aristo?

Alright...the hydro fan ATF circuit is different from the PS circuit...correct? That is they have separate coolers. If so, the stock PS cooler has minimum cooling capability. The stock oil cooler should work well for this application as well...basically the same as what I said earlier...

I'd focus on the cooling system...sounds like you're pulling air into it somewhere. Check the rad cap 1st.

Considering the filter is a huge air leak, that's exactly what it should do. The air feed needs to be routed to the intake after the AFM. I am surprised it runs smoothly. I'm betting he also have another vac leak somewhere. If you block off the ISCV and the PCV fitting on the TB, the motor...

Can't do much unless it happens again ;) Could be a heat-soak issue with the electronics. I would take a look at the CPS wiring/connector...that is a very common problem area on these cars.

LMAO! JJ's gonna put the skull and cross bones on it just for that!

Cable hooked up to the tranny? ;) Jag - you're using a dual oil filter with a Trasko correct? Have any pics of it mounted?

If it's like other TCCS (and I'll bet it is), the ISCV needs metered air to properly adjust idle...you should not use a filter unless you've switched to a speed density set-up. You want to check for vac leaks too.

You're gonna have to help me out...the specifics on the 1J is not my strong point ;) What fluid drives the Hydro Fan? I was always under the impression it was engine coolant?

I have low profile fog lights, similar to these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PIA%2D2190&N=700+115&autoview=sku They do make placing the coolers and remote filters easier ;) I'm using a Long's TruCool the same size as your smaller B&M. Here's how...

RP = Grp IV PAO oil. German Castrol has a better additive package and is usually less $$$ per quart.

Keep in mind Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic oil...it is a hydrocracked (Grp III) dino oil. Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30 is a much better choice...it's a true synthetic, Grp IV PAO based oil. Get it at AutoZone...there's a lot more info in the oil section here. If...

Read this for the routing of the remote oil filter/cooler circuit: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838 You should be able to mount the smaller cooler for the oil at/near the stock location. My auto tranny cooler is mounted forward of the driver's side wheel well behind...

Bit confused...I thought the hydro fan was for the engine coolant system?

Do this: I beginning to suspect you have wiring issues (i.e. old, brittle wiring) from the igniter to the coils and from the CPS through it's connector (and perhaps the CPS wires over the front of the motor). You may also have a bad coil. Lets see what codes there are after you clear them...

LOL...that was easy ;) Basically you were getting a boat load of unmetered air into the system. Not the AFM like the guys suggested earlier, but damn close.