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frontierguy - If you run an AEM EMS, you have control over timing and fuel. You do not have to install an EGR unless you want to help the gas mileage. Billy - The piggyback fuel/MAP computers do not allow timing to be changed. You will be forced to run rich to get the same effect as the EGR.

So, I'm an ass because I'm sick and tired of all the crap people like you post as "facts". I can't help that you (and your buddies) choose to live in ignorance. I guess that's why you have to call people names that point it out to you. Don't have to make you look like anything...you're...

Enjoy your week off ;)

How about facts vs comment like this? You're whole argument is based on speculation. More of the same...figgie covered it quite nicely. This comment is absurd...you're trying to correlate head bolt torque to the EGR. What I was getting at is UK Supra's have the same ECU as USDM...

Most of those replies are the typical logical fallacy..."it didn't happen to me, so that means it won't happen". Believe what you want ;) The heat at the back of the head is not the issue. The turbo and DP create far more radiant heat than the EGR cooler ecer could. Plus the water jacket...

The answer to the question one or two piece DS is "it depends"...same for the material used in constructing the shaft. Just like IJ said it's not that a failure of a one piece WILL happen due to the various factors, I'll turn it around and say it's very possible it WON'T happen either. Defects...

My 1st car, a '70 Chevelle SS...sorry, no pics. I'd love to have that car now.

Proper crimps are as good or better than solder...at lot less brittle and less prone to breaks.

You thought wrong...don't post Mk IV stuff in the Mk III forums again.

Ian - I have a brand new set of ARP studs out in the garage. Before I posted that, I fit one of the nuts to both a 14mm and 9/16" socket. The nut fit both...in fact, it was a better (bit more snug) fit to the 14mm.

The degree work hardening will have a significant effect is going to depend if the material shape (in this case a shaft) is twisted to the point where dislocations occur in the stress field resulting in rearrangement of the metallic crystal lattice. Translation: it's going to depend on the...

LOL...yeah it is ;) If I were to be doing hard drag type launches on a regular basis, steel would be my choice. For what I do, a MMC material would be optimum...something like the aluminium boron carbide matrix Ford uses on some of it's drive shafts. Critical speed jumps for my specs to...

Exactly Ian...each situation, tranny/differential/tire configuration, and use of the car is unique. If you go with a one piece, it absolutely must be balanced perfectly...the shop that makes it better be good. Safety loops are a very good idea. The problem with the stock two piece is the...

A Craftsman 3/8" drive 14mm 12 point socket will fit....so will a Craftsman 9/16" 12 point 3/8" drive socket (just like IJ said earlier). You will need a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter for your 1/2" torque wrench. With the cams off, it will be no problem.

I'm going to throw something out concerning 1 piece drive shafts...the vehicle speeds you would have to reach before the DS hits critical speed RPM are ridiculous...well above the threshold of what the engine/tranny combos are capable of. Using this calculator...I came up with...

HP is not the issue...DS critical speed, angle to the differential, balance, and torque are the issues.

This is the best, most reliable way to keep the crank from turning...it will not matter if you have the cams or timing belt installed. Pay attention to the last sentence. You may need an extension pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage.

First of all...QUIT YELLING (all caps) - A long/short block is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_block - You have a 6M crank - "Best DP" is a relative thing...the HKS is good, but restrictive compared to others due to the use of a stock elbow

In that case, your rings are shot (especially #4). I doubt the machinist decked the block either.

You can't easily relocate the EGR from the rear port on the head, but you can route it for an FFIM without too much trouble. Here's how I did it: