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Permatex "The Right Stuff" works well too...I've never had it leak.

A crappy PCV system will make it worse. I'm not too sure why you pulled the head :icon_conf And there is no way water can get into the oil from the turbo, unless the center section is cracked (not likely).

Actually a good question ;) The TB PCV fitting has an orifice that limits the amount of boost pressure. The pressure that does get by helps move the oil vapors to the accordion hose with kind of a siphon effect as the flow passes over the outlets on the cam covers. This path is not as...

Exactly! Can't wait to hear the incoherent logic behind this one ;)

#1 - I'm not JJ #2 - If you post in the Tech Section, you need to be 100% sure. #3 - You are well on your way.

No...you should pay attention. Here's his posts...no where does it say "no spark". It says misfire...as usual you have a reading comprehension problem. He's talking about another car (one he rebuilt) that can't get spark. I'll say it once more...the odds of this are slim to none...

Because the things you say to do are so far out, it ignores what the likely cause really is...you say so yourself. No real knowledge, just a long run-on paragraph that make little sense and is very difficult to read. The more you post, the more "clueless" you appear to be. A cracked plug...

That's way too high....~3000 RPM here (3.91 LSD).

Yep...correctly align and lay on the block deck. If a rivet touches, remove it.

Now that it's getting cold, a bit of "steam" on start is normal. Same for some condensation in the motor, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Water is a by-product of combustion and when the engine does not get good and hot, it doesn't get vaporized so the PCV system can get rid of it.

Copper spray on a stock HG is fine...in fact, I would use it everytime to help seal imperfections on the head/block decks. It's a new MHG you don't want to use the spray.

I bet it's cold...very cold and very stupid, with a lot of background noise/radiation. A lot like what you would see on Pluto :biglaugh: Fixed <IJ> ;)

2-3 MPG (at least that's what mine did).

MA70 - just check the t-stat and the rad. Like JJ said, everything points that way. It would take longer than a 15 min drive for an auto tranny to transfer enough heat (considering the volume of ATF), and even then you should never overheat as a result.

It would be HIGHLY unlikely a cracked plug insulator would allow oil in the cylinder. #1 - It would have to extend past the metal base #2 - the oil would have to be above the insulator #3 - a crack like that would be very visible Even with a missing plug washer, the threads on the plug...

- Check the thermostat...could be sticking shut. I always cut the jiggle valve off for a bit of flow at all times. Helps with a pressure build behind the stat that can hold it closed. Use a 190 deg stat...not a colder one for where you live. - The radiator could have a number of clogged...

You might want to check the #1/6 coil...the TSRM tells you how.

Going to a full flow cooler circuit is the #1 oil upgrade you can do $$$ wise. Shimming the oil pump is easy. The thread pretty much spells out how to upgrade the cooler circuit...the huge advantage is no more cooler relief valve (it's in the stock filter head). It's a pressure bleed on...

You know I don't hate the 7M ;) Exactly my thought too...the 2J is a great motor and belongs in the MK IV. There is zero reason to do a ton of work to go backward in time.

All you need are new squirter bolts...just clean your squirters well in solvent and make sure the nozzles are clear of any crap. Shim the relief valve spring on the oil pump about 5mm with washers. Check the oil pump shaft bearing clearances...if you had the block hot tanked, you will...