Search results

A 7M in a Mk IV? I find it hard to even imagine why someone would do that!

^^^ It sure is...the CPS wires get brittle from the exhaust manifold heat, usually crack at the connector.

Pretty sure he meant for 50 over rings. Are you going to bore the block or try to get by with a hone (use the same pistons)?

This is a very bad idea...the screw on top of the TB is set from the factory full closed due to the reasons mentioned. It was removed from the '89+ motors because it's not necessary and people keep messing with it. You just opened up a pirate air source to the motor. All you've done is cause...

I'll bet (since it's "Dryer") that it contains alcohol...that will not help with NOx. Alcohol does burn hotter, exactly what you don't want to do where NOx is a problem. Besides, HC is what you failed on the 3rd test not NOx...so why are you worried about it? You can use it...it will get...

A CT26 would require a new BB center section to do what you want...the expense would not be worth it IMO. Take a look at the BOSS turbos (http://www.suprasport.com)...they bolt right up to the stock manifold and DP. In fact the BOSS Jr is pretty much what you're looking for ;)

I merged the two threads...no point in having both on the same subject.

Aurolite 5503 plugs are the correct length...it's the 3923 plugs (that seem to be so popular) that are 1/8" shorter. The 3923's can/have arced due to improper wire contact. The plugs need to be gapped at 0.031". (0.31" would be a tad bit wide) ;)

Even the best quality parts sometimes have a flaw...could easily be a case of just plain unlucky ;)

I agree...the Comp cam springs is a no brainer. Inexpensive, works really well, and on stock/aftermarket cams up to the 264's. Just do it ;)

Yep...Had a feeling the wires might be the problem ;)

Check for a leak at the distributor as suggested. Look at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover...you might have a small leak at the front main or oil pump driveshaft seal. Cam seals too (I know you replaced them...right?). Check your power steering lines and reservoir...I've seen the...

Not a lot of info on the Ted 264 cams, but if the lift is less than 9mm you should be able to use the Comp Cam springs without binding. Over that lift or if you're planning to push RPM up in the 8000 range, I would use Ferrea's. Here's the spring seat pressures for the various ones...

What kind of plugs/gap and did you check the plug wires (how old are they)?

That's why I always lay the MHG on the block 1st and check ;)

I doubt changing tranny oil will make a difference....especially since you are already using MT-90.

Titan MHGs are made by Cometic...I'm pretty sure the rivet problem has been fixed, but you always should lay a MHG on the block deck and check for any rivets that touch it. Those have to be removed.

^^^ True statement...thanks gaboon.

New MHG (regardless of brand) - No spray sealer Used MHG (regardless of brand) - Strip off old factory Viton coating (acetone or paint thinner) and and spray a couple coats of the copper sealer. You are replacing the Viton.

The dipstick is a known/old problem...the earlier models (yellow loop handle) are better. You can improve yours by shining it up with steel wool or a scotts bright pad.