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ARP head bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs using moly for lube on an aluminum head (like the 7M).

1st - Check for codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Certain error codes can affect timing and preclude accurately setting it. This is how you set timing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/setting_timing.aspx This is not eluding you yet...you've...

Basically, TRD says the EGR lowers throttle response and bottom end power...in the case of the 7M, that's idle to ~4000 RPM and is correct. Not a big issue at all for a street car, especially when you consider the impact the EGR has in this RPM band. Once above 4000 RPM, the motor produces the...

The 7M crank is smoother due to it's full counter weight design, but it's heavier. The 6M crank is lighter and can rev a bit higher. This is why you see the lower redline RPM on the '90+ cars ;) Personally, I went for the best of both...a 7M crank lightened, knife edged, and zero...

How about changing the plugs, check the wires/timing and fix any vac/intake/IC piping leaks to eliminate the CAUSE of the high HC. The route you suggest completely ignores the problem...it's also why people have so much trouble with these cars. They do crap like this with no clue how the ECU...

Those are a nice CAT ;) Great idea! Lets induce another problem to cover this one!

The 3" coupler listed for $83 on the website ;)

First of all, it doesn't belong in the Tech Section. Second, exactly why is this useful? Third, thread closed pending Mod discussion.

First of all, it doesn't belong in the Tech Section. Second, exactly why is this useful? Third, thread closed pending Mod discussion.

First of all, it doesn't belong in the Tech Section. Second, exactly why is this useful? Third, thread closed pending Mod discussion.

Adjusting the screw on the AFM is nowhere in the TRSM...all it does is allow more/less unmetered air past the AFM. A crude way to adjust AFR when running more boost or bigger injectors...best used with an AFPR. It is not the way to adjust idle...the ECU does that. All you did was mask what...

If you're going to use a in-tank injector cleaner, you need one that contains polyether amine (PEA - Chevron invented it)...anything else is a waste of cash. Chevron Techron Concentrate, Gumout Regane (yellow liquid in the clear bottle) or Red Line SI-1. I prefer Gumout Regane. Chevron has it...

:gotrice:

The TCCS book says its used for fuel cut off during decel with the TB plate closed, for timing corrections during idle due to changing load, and for adjustment to AFR during accel/decel. It looks like fuel economy type trims more than anything.

Yep...you'd have to have a pretty precision fit on your IC pipes for those to work ;)

Ahhh yes...SPD input. Not a great idea since the ECU uses it to control AFR during accel/decel. Input to idle control too. Not to mention the mischief it would cause to an auto tranny (depending on where it's cut) ;)

Purpose of said gay wire IJ?

That's a good size cooler. My only critique is the use of the fittings between the thermostat and the filter head. Those tend to be restrictive (a hard 90 is = 10' of hose), but it looks like you used two 45 deg vs a hard 90...that should be ok. You used hoses with crimped hose ends? ;)...

You can clean it with freon ;) Any of the chemical cleaners will haze the mirror and trash the AFM electronics...accurate frequency output is history. If you remove the electronics, you can clean the aluminum AFM body all you want.

If you leave the center cover off or use one of the stainless types, you'll need to put teflon thread sealant on each of the big hex plugs that screw in the top of the head. From the earlier question - RTV = Permatex silicone sealant...the black is fine...you can get a tube at any parts store.