Search results

That would be my guess..likely the SAFC ;)

Yep...does not surprise me at all ;)

The 7M-GTE always uses *some* oil...it's the nature of the beast. On a new motor, the rings have to fully seat...it will use oil until it does. What oil was in it for break-in and have you changed it since the initial fill? BTW - a tea spoon of water is not excessive.

You need a tester to determine RA...they are rather expensive ;) Safe bet is a OEM HG...you will be able to hold boost (properly torqued) to the limit of a CT26 (or fuel cut) without problems. My previous posts apply though ;)

The SAFC could very well be part of the issue...thing is, I'm not familar with it as to how the knobs control the different aspects of what it does. I do know it modifies the AFM signal to the ECU. You might want to contact the previous owner and determine what you have for injectors. If...

The Cometic MHG requires a smoothness of RA50 or lower. Installing it on a block that has not been machined is a crap shoot. And, you should never use a spray (copper) sealer on a new MHG...it attacks the factory Viton coating. It's even more important that the block deck checks out flatness wise.

A long shot, but perhaps you should check the dashpot: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=8 It shouldn't be a factor since it appears the TB plate is closed at idle (engine dies when you pinch off the ISCV/PCV hoses). Do you have a wideband O2...

The ISCV could be it, but not likely...and, yes you need that check valve ;) Can you hear it step open when the motor is shut down? Drive the car with the current settings and see what it does. Timing is the next thing to look at.

Grim - High RPM misfire...even with gaps at say .025 or so. djza80 - Most of the info Denso/NGK is for stock boost applications. Like I said, it's something I've seen...it's going to depend on the specific motor as to whether it will occur. As usual, the real answer is "it depends" ;)

No problem...I can tell you have a clue ;) Ok, what I understand is the idle is steady at 1400 RPM, FP at 27 psi, no vac leaks, no tears or leaks in the accordion hose or PCV/ISCV hoses to the TB. All correct? The CEL with the coolant sensor unplugged is normal...it will set a stored...

If there is no difference with the ECU temp sensor disconnected, coolant temps are not the problem...it's default is 80 deg C. That's where warm-up enrichment terminates.

You might get a tiny bit better gas mileage with iridiums, but the biggest benefit is length of service. You don't have to change them every 5-7000 miles like you do with coppers ;)

I edited my above post ;) Sorry for all the small shit details, but it's kinda painful with me not being there!

That's with FP at 30 psi and vac line connected? Drop FP to 27 psi. You might want to drive the car to allow the ECU time to "re-learn"...but, that idle is still high even for default values. What injectors are you using? Can you accurately read coolant temps? Try pulling the ECU temp...

Not really a thread jack...the OP asked about what plugs to use ;) I know IJ experienced the glow plug with iridiums and I suspect a guy in a recent thread torched a piston due to them, compounded by a couple other factors. I'm not saying don't use iridiums...on a light to moderate mod'ed...

Reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse and try it again with the FP at 30 psi (motor needs to be warmed up). Setting FP is a "global" correction on this car...in that sense it is the same as most engines. Increasing FP will richen the mixture, decreasing FP will lean. The difference is the...

It helps, but does not eliminate the problem It's physics...the electrode on the iridiums is very small and iridium does not conduct heat as well as platinum or copper.

That spec is with the vac line disconnected. With the vac line connected, set the Aeromotive to 30 psi. Yes, high FP will increase idle ;) Depending on what injectors you're running, it may need to be less. I'm using 550 injectors and FP is set at 27 psi (vac line connected).

It's not the spark that makes the difference, it's copper's ability to conduct heat away from the tip. After an extended high speed/boost run (especially on a high HP motor), iridiums can "glow plug" due to the heat...minor detonation (ping) at boost makes it worse. If you experience this...

Ok...just to confirm, with the engine shut down you unplugged the ECU temp sensor in this pic: There was no change in idle when you re-started the motor with this sensor unplugged? Disconnect the vac line to the fuel pressure requlator. Idle should increase (so should fuel...