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The cold start injector functions when coolant temp is low and the starter is engaged. Once the motor is started, it's impossible for the CSI to remain on due to the way it's wired. However, the CSI can be mechanically stuck open and cause a rich condition, but that has nothing to do with...

Yeah, you really need to replace those brackets...the stock ones have rubber there for a reason (and it's not for noise/rattle). Same for the rubber "donuts" at the bottom mounts, they need to be there. That is if you want your shiney new rad to last very long ;)

Code 12 is: "No NE or G signal to the ECU within 2 sec after engine crank". That means the CPS or it's wiring...could be the STA signal as well. Code 41 is: "Open or short circuit in TPS signal". That means the TPS itself or it's circuit...nothing to do with adjusting the TPS. Both (NE...

You used sandpaper? :icon_eek: You used a sealer on a new MHG? :3d_frown: Hate to tell ya, but both are bad ideas.

Any oil (including Red Line) will darken...the gasoline smell, different story. Instead of guessing, send an oil sample to Blackstone: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ If you suspect a BHG, get a Napa Block Tester and check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system.

IJ - Viscosity is 24.0 cst at 100 deg C; 168 cst at 40 deg C Edge 10W-60 is an API SM/CF (most current) and meets ACEA A3, B3, B4. http://www.castroledge.com.au/downloads/EDGE_Sport_10W-60_466129_2008_08.pdf

The freeze plugs on the block seal off coolant passages...there should be no oil "leaking". If you replace the freeze plugs, use Toyota OEM...aftermarket have a tendency to blow out. I would have that block magnafluxed for cracks before spending a penny on it. You never, ever want to...

Dude - you really need to replace that TB per our previous series of posts ;) You will never be able to get it to work with that gap.

This is how the SAE and API classify oils: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811 basically the 1st number is the "cold" (40 deg C) viscosity and the 2nd number is the "hot" (100 deg C ops temp) viscosity. Viscosity improvers (VI) are used to change the viscosity range...

And what makes a K&N filter good? How about a Mobil 1 filter? Canton anyone? My point is you need to take a look at how a filter is constructed and what media is used for the filter element. There are other considerations as well. You just can't waltz in and say "just use a K&N high...

^^^ I agree. CyFi - the effect your bearings have on oil pressure are a lot more than you think...especially on a motor with that many miles. The 0W-40 is very appropriate for your engine.

That looks good! ;) Might want to use a side port block adapter. The top port (like you have pictured) will sometimes interfere with the IC piping once a 90 deg hose end is attached. I like the side port filter adapters as well...usually eliminates a convoluted hose end combo.

This is a good way to do it. Fairly clean and no more pressure loss from the stock filter head dumping oil to the pan. Pretty sure this is what IJ was referring to. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

cccc - The temp gauge "in the middle" is higher than most...you are showing higher temps than I would be comfortable with. Most stock gauges sit in the 4-5 O'clock position on a motor with a coolant system in good shape. I've seen the 1J and 2J oil coolers...the guys that use them have oil...

Well, since it's the #1 and #6 plug, they share the same coil, and they fire at the same time, it make me suspect an ignition problem with those two plugs. You may also have oil from leaky seals or poor rings. Swap two coils around and see if you get the same thing on the same plugs or if if...

Just to be clear...do you have oil on the spark plug tips (from inside the cylinder) or oil in the spark plug wells (outside the motor)? The spark plug valley (outside the motor) "seals" on the center cover with the plug wires sealing around the individual holes. Leaky cam cover gaskets will...

The bead types pretty much seal the same...the best is the HKS stopper type. HKS MHGs require a smoothness of 30 RA or better...Cometic (Titan) requires a 50 RA. The Cometic can tolerate a rougher finish...it's less "finicky".

I wouldn't use filters on the valve covers. The PCV system needs the vac to pull vapor out of the crankcase. The biggest combustion byproduct is water...you also have fuel vapor, how much depends on the condition of the rings. Neither has a good effect on your oil. The whole idea is for the...

Do that and you will pressurize the crankcase...the air flow under boost needs to go from the TB, to the cam cover PCV tubes, to the turbo inlet. You will need to put a fitting on whatever you use to hold the air filter (i.e. the tube from the turbo inlet to air filter).

Using an oil-water cooler increases load on the cooling system. The stock cooling system in the Mk III has limited excess capacity...not a great idea IMO. A full flow oil cooler circuit will help pressure and help the motor get rid of heat more efficiently.