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Take a look at what's hanging off the inside rear-view mirror ;)

Only to a point ;)

Keep in mind ^^^ this was a very bad experience with Crower Cams. Brian Crower is a completely different company.

7mster - Look, you posted a thread just like this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82743 It was closed...this is the wrong section for this kind of thing. Post in the Want to Buy section as suggested. Posting the same thing once the thread was closed is going to earn...

LOL...based on post #17, I'm thinking it's you ;)

As long as the surface meets the RA spec (a Cometic is 50) for the MHG, it doesn't really matter how it was achieved. A CBN cutter run at a slow speed can easy do it.

Thing is Teal, Nate is not posting nonsense...in fact, what he pointed out was the opposite is true. At the risk of becoming a power hungry mod (in your eyes), you might want to consider posting less and thinking more before you do.

Ummmm...You're welcome (I guess)

He meant disconnect the battery...you always should anytime you work on the car. J/B #1...Left Kick Panel: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=15 Parts assigned to power source (fuse)...

He already has a Blitz EBC ;) I would get a upgraded fuel pump (Walbro or Mk IV Denso) and an AFPR. Electronics wise...a MAFT Pro or SAFC.

Yep...Toyota did a great job optimizing the NA from the factory. Unless you plan on doing some major modifications (i.e. stroking the motor), 400 HP is pretty much impossible to attain without forced induction. You will do well to get 250-260 HP.

The turbo manifold uses the same lower runners as the NA iirc. Good luck getting 400 HP out of a 3.0L NA motor...I'd like to see the dyno on that one ;)

Andy - I apologize...I misunderstood what you were asking. No excuse, but I'm just getting over a bout of pneumonia...the drugs (especially the Hycodan) and being cooped up for the last 10 days is making me bitchy. It wasn't that that a 5W-30 was too thin back in the late '80's...the SAE...

Check the Gauge fuse...lower left kick panel.

Mobil 1 is not going to hurt your motor, but there's better oil for the $$$ available. Do some reading in this section and make up your own mind ;) Same concerning oil filters...there's a sticky on that one.

Yep...what you described earlier had all the attributes of a split/popped IC hose. Check all your other connectors too...high chance of finding another bad one due to the age/brittleness of the rubber. That should solve your code 34 problem till you hit 12-14 psi of boost. You need to get...

You left something out...the verbiage above that chart: Note...it says "recommended"...the chart says nothing about what is "not recommended". Not too sure where you got "recommend not using 5W30 above 50F" from this chart because it does not say that at all. What it does say is a 5W-30...

Check all of your IC piping/connectors from the turbo, to the IC, to the TB...the rubber connector attaching the 3000 pipe to the TB is often cracked and is very hard to see. Also check the accordion hose for cracks/leaks.

Time for you to do your own research. Superior across the board...especially in anti-wear additives. Mobil 1 is a middle of the road oil sold at a high price. You can "believe" what you want as to what Mobil 1 "seems" to do. If you're going to use a hydrocracked Grp III oil, Pennzoil...

Hmmm...seems there's a whole section on Piggyback Tuning :rolleyes: http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=110 A 10 sec search yielded this for widebands: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38112&highlight=AFR%2A+Tuning Might want to take the time to look...