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I would find out for sure if I were you ;) Specifically: - Was both the block and head decked to a 50 RA to meet the Cometic MHG smoothness spec...a lot of guys do not pull the motor to have the block decked. If they don't, it's a crap shoot if the MHG will seal or not. The block at...

I'd be more worried about who installed the Cometic MHG, if both the block/head was decked, what hardware & torque spec was used to torque the head down and if the head bolts/studs have been retorqued since the HG change. Turn up the boost without any of the above done correctly = BHG in very...

Doesn't have to be water in the cylinder...any liquid will cause hydrolock (like oil).

FP and B+ jumped (engine off) - FP should be 33-40 psi. Engine on, vac line removed from FPR - FP should be 33-40 psi. (this sounds like the main problem) Engine on, vac line attached to FPR - FP should be 23-30 psi. FP should stay at 21 psi or above for 5 minutes after the engine is...

The 7M PCV does not use a valve...primary vacuum is supplied from the plenum through an orifice in the TB. The orifice prevents an excessive boost leak...a weak vacuum is supplied from the accordion hose (under boost) to the other side. You do not want to use breathers of any kind on the cam...

Not a big fan of removing stock head bolts and replacing with ARP hardware and not replace the HG as well. Too easy to induce a failure. I'd "crack" each head bolt back (1/8th CCW turn) and torque straight to 70 ft/lbs...using the TSRM pattern, of course. Don't use your torque wrench to crack...

Personally, I think it's a perception thing. People see a "0W" and immediately think "that oil is thin as water", when reality is far different (GC 0W-30 is actually pretty thick for a 30 multigrade). Folks have a hard time believing a modern motor hits it's best efficiency on the 0W/5W-30 or...

Especially if it's a bit colder outside ;)

I've bought from them, but it has been a while...no problems. It was name brand parts...I'd call to make sure they have stock.

Mobil 1 data on their 75W-90...note the "Application" section of the sheet: Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant Red Line's white paper on MTL and MT-90...note the discussion on GL-4 vs GL-5 gear oils and the effect on synchro operation/wear: Red Line Manual Transmission Lubricant

Arizona cars tend to be this way ;)

Mine weren't rusted..in fact, there is zero rust anywhere on the car ;)

Next time start your thread in the right section ;) Thread moved.

Maybe it was this: Followed by this: A smart-ass post...it's pretty obvious who you are referring to. Problem is, that's all you got...you resort to innuendo and personal insults to "prove" your point. Jealousy? Take a look in the mirror and you'll see exactly what it looks like...

Last was at PepBoys...it's been on sale at AZ too, but it's been a while. Look for Castrol SynTec sales...GC is included ;)

I'm usually able to catch it on sale and grab a case ;)

Use Mobil 1 all you like...they even make a friction modifier you can add. More is better, right? And you can keep adding to a bunch of lying scumbags executive bonuses, cause Mobil 1 is easy to get, right? I hear adding a pint of salt water to Mobil 1 in the tranny does wonders for the...

QFT One thing to add...Mobil 1 gear oil also contains friction modifiers. Same effect as RP Max Gear. You can use either in your LSD, but I wouldn't in a R154 or W58.

Ummmm...no :3d_frown: The TPS does two things: - Informs the ECU if the car is at idle (IDL on/off) - Informs the ECU of throttle plate position (VTA signal) The TPS tells the ECU nothing (at all) about engine load. You're new, so you need to know. This is the Tech Section...if you are...

Dead on Adam ;) Grounding the rad to the body turns it into an anode...aluminum is one of the metals used as a sacrificial anode in other applications where galvanic corrosion occurs. An aluminum rad can develop a leak very quickly if it's left like that.