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No....the FP is only on during crank and after start. Jump the diagnostic block with the key on like I said if you want to test FP.

You can test without cranking by jumping B+ and Fp on the diagnostic block and turning on the ignition key.

You're welcome. Both links work for me :icon_conf

A little more detail as to how it got in this condition would be helpful ;) Did you pull ECU codes? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Might want to read this...then go from there: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=842 A very common cause for...

The stock sensor is in the oil channel that runs the length of the block...it's post filter (on a remote system too).

Personally - I've got a set of 1000cc injectors that's going in the next motor ;)

Based on what I've been seeing on SM lately, I hope a lot of these guys don't drink ;) (for the reasons IJ stated)

Ian - What's throwing me off is pressure not continuing to build as RPM increased...Grim takes the cooler out of the loop and it's back to building pressure. A lag I can understand. This has me scratching my head a bit...the design has to have something to do with it. Grim - I have an Rx-7...

No "slots" on the outside face of the washer?

Just yanking your chain a bit man. Drinking beer actually makes you smarter. It's based on what you see in a buffalo herd...the weak are culled out by predators, leaving the rest of the herd strong and virile. Same with brain cells...the weak are killed off by beer leaving the rest stronger...

Cooler design...the size of the passages, the end tanks, etc. It's the same as you would see on a cheap IC having a big boost pressure drop. Line size to the cooler will have an effect as well...Spool was showing a bit less pressure than you Grim and he is using -10 lines. I suspected the...

Not on the Clevites (NCCs actually - marked T1-1006B-U-STD) I have here...the side with the grooves is very shiny. The sides facing inside (toward the cap/saddle inset groove) is dull.

Get a new crush washer too...part #90430-20010 in the pic. Same for the crush washer holding the spring in. Make sure you clean any deposits on the little piston and in the tube it fits in.

Shiny side out...always reminds me of keeping the "shiny side up" in an airplane ;)

Ahhh...that makes sense concerning valve length to seat pressure. But, blowing the valves open with 70# is still pretty unlikely.

Fixed that for ya ;)

Yeah, now that the turbo is off it will be easy to remove the filter housing. Might be a good idea just to get a new cooler relief spring from the Dealer...it can't be very expensive and it's easy to replace.

Backwards? You mean with the notch on the block side? Forget that...you have to mean with the grooves on the inside vs facing out.

It will allow the crank to move fore/aft...not good for the bearings at all. He should be able to install without removing the pistons...the problem is in the torque sequence. The TSRM is specific about the sequence to loosen the main caps...

Should be more than that with a cooler that size ;)