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Castrol filters are made by Wix. The MaxPro uses conventional media, the MaxPro Plus use a synthetic media. The filter definitely should not be the cause, nor should the leak at the CPS. One other thing could cause this...the piston squirters. If one or more is stuck open or opening...

Did you check the cooler circuit for when the relief valve is opening per the suggestions above?

That is odd...does the pressure drop stay constant while you're accelerating, then reach a constant speed with the same gas pedal pressure? Assuming you're using a quality filter (like a Wix), the filter clogging up would just put it in to bypass. Oil would just flow directly to the outlet.

Actually...I hope it is the turbo. A lot cheaper than rings ;) Change the oil...Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) 0W-30 is a thicker 30W multigrade than most at ops temp. It wouldn't hurt to try it.

JJ ran 5W-20 for a lot longer than 100 miles ;) The difference could be how hard you push the car. Have you done a compression test (hot) to confirm no blowby?

Wasn't exactly "mocking"...but, the point is the correct answer usually sounds like "Bill Nye the Science Guy". I've tried to dumb answers down in the past and it doesn't work very well...or, I get someone roll in on me nit picking what I said.

It's called the pump relief valve on the 7M...it's what you shimmed. How much did you shim it? That depends on the spring condition, but you are correct...pressure should be lower than what you are showing. That's why I suspect the pump itself. You could be having another shaft issue too...

LOL...I understand ;) Doing some decent script drugs over here too! You need to figure draw for each, add for total draw...that will tell you what size wire from the battery, the CB (or power fuse) size, and relay size.

Your going to need 12 circuits?...WOW, that's a lot. What are you going to run to this and how much power (amps) does each draw? These blocks also have a separate ground bus you could run a dedicated line to battery ground.

Robert - The load signal JJ is referring to is is the Ks emulation to the ECU the MAFT pro is producing using speed density. Exactly what we talked about yesterday.

Scott - That gives me the shivers just looking at it...DO NOT use that. What you want is a fuse block like these (scroll down) http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/BLUFB/Fuse+Blocks+-+Blue+Sea+Systems These blocks are for 100A max total draw. A 6 or 9 circuit should do it...this way, each piece...

Is that with T & E1 jumped at 2500 RPM, engine warm?

I hate to say this, but it's looking like a oil pump (shaft or pump itself). Oil degrading should not cause that much of a drop...you could change it to make sure, but I doubt it. You might want to check the RX-7 cooler is not creating a return restriction to the motor. Just bypass it with a...

And not knowing how/what/why the ECU controls this motor will turn around on you and bite...really, really hard.

Refresh my memory...has the stock filter head been removed? Was the oil pump shimmed?

You actually expect an answer to this? Thread closed.

The Vf/E1 voltage indicates a lean condition (which your AFR confirms)...it also means the ECU is "pushing" AFR correction rich (which it should). Checking Vf/E1 in the diagnostic mode (E1 & T jumped) is the only other valid measurement and should be checked at 2500 RPM. That will give the...

LOL...no, I didn't say that at all ;) I did say both ways will provide 12V to the pump.

If you jump the resistor connector (harness side), the fuel pump will run at a constant 12V...this is very easy to do. You keep the old wiring though. The other variations of the "12 Volt Mod" are replacing the wires all the way to the pump with 10GA wire and using a relay in the rear of the...

Coolant temps over 210 deg F, the ECU pulls timing.