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Red Line MT-90 is what you want to use.

Check your oil like IJ said.

Check your codes. You need to makes sure valve timing was done correctly...cam gears on the index and dampner pointing at zero when the distributor was installed (pointing at #1 plug) per the TSRM. Then you can set basic timing by jumping the diagnostic block and set to 10 deg BDTC. You...

Injectors + valve train noise. As suggested, check your valve clearances and hope your cam caps are torqued down correctly. As stated, the diagnostic block has to be jumped to set basic timing at 10 deg BTDC. When the jumper is removed, timing should advance to >12 deg BTDC. Vacuum to...

A better description (exact & detailed) would help ;)

Might as well...I know IJ sure has fun blowing motors up ;)

Under 176 deg F coolant temps, the ECU is in warm-up enrichment...it should not be lean. In any case, the ECU does not cut fuel for a lean condition.

NGK plugs...gap at 0.7mm Check the plug wire resistance...should be less than 25 kOhm What is your fuel pressure?

Might want to read through this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62953 Defiant (Alan) stroked the motor to 101mm with an 85mm bore for 3.5L displacement...that meant custom everything. By his calculations, he still won't make 400 HP. Not trying to rain on your...

Here's a post Shawndude did over at SF a while back concerning Turbo vs NA at 100% (extremely unrealistic) Volumetric Efficiency and the amount of HP that can be attained: On a 3.0L motor, using custom pistons, a completely worked head, and cams...400 HP is impossible. Even if you...

Drops my FC (on a Lex/550 combo) ~2 psi when it gets colder...and, that's in AZ ;) Sometimes a leak doesn't show until you are well into boost...about where you are.

Boost cut is based on the volume of air the AFM "sees"...colder OAT will affect it (occur at a lower psi). You might want to check for boost leaks.

Missed the "it turns over part"...must be getting senile.

The EWD shows the Ignition Switch getting power through that 100A fuse (fusible link actually) to activate the starter solenoid. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038

Check the 100A Alt fuse in the engine bay box...the EFI fuse too. Hooking the battery up backwards may have blown one of them (or both).

Rich did the work on that head...very, very nice job. He still takes pride is his work ;)

You got that right! Only I'm here because the Dr. is making me...I'm recovering from pneumonia. My other choice was to be bored in the hospital ;)

It has an impact on your HC readings ;) And, it's a big source of pirate air since you opened a closed system...you need to fix it.

It's part of the PCV...combustion byproducts (mostly water) and any fuel contamination in the crankcase is vaporized by hot oil and sent to the intake plenum to be burned in the cylinders. When was the last time you changed the oil?

Yeah...that happens ;) What I wanted to make sure of is the TB orifice for the PCV is clear. I'm with you on the spark problem...like I said, the idle issue concerns me too.