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That brings up a good point...any new codes stored now?

Put the FP back to 40 psi...a 17.2 AFR idle is too lean.

It looks like Vf is attempting to push AFR feedback to rich (makes sense...that voltage indicates a lean condition). Did you adjust the AFPR by any chance? Might want to check the MAFT Pro to make sure it's not pulling fuel at the low end.

The 100A fuse is secured with a screw from the bottom ;)

Just to put the info in this thread: On the top of early model 7M TBs there is an idle adjustment screw (the book calls it an air bypass screw). Since idle is controlled by the ISCV, this screw should be all the way closed. It is common for it to have been messed with...I mean it's there, so...

After doing a bit of reading, I'm wondering if it is a harness issure or not. Vf *may* be working (it's a correction value after all). I'd like to see what you have for voltage at Vf and E1 without the jumper installed on E1 and T. Like we talked about, let it go for a bit. I would make...

Talked to Supraguy on the phone...resolved a couple issues ;) Some more info on Vf: - Its a AFR learned value output in 5 stages on the 7M - "Normal" is 2.5 volts - Higher than 2.5 volts...the correction coefficient is on the "increasing" side (richer) - Lower than 2.5 volts...the...

7M electronics ;) With FP that high, it's no wonder it "breaks up" at 3-5K RPM.

26 years last June for me...they'll kick me out at 30. If I could get an AD retirement now I'd be history ;) I'm in Phoenix for pretty much the same reason...I was stationed at Luke AFB back in '97 when I left AD.

That FP is way too high :aigo: I have mine set at 27 psi (vac on). Like Grim said, check for boost leaks.

It's Ok if he's not the one selling it...interest only type post ;)

Army guy huh....USAFR here ;) Flew in to Biggs many times when I was stationed in Del Rio, Tx (AD at Laughlin AFB) back in the day. With colder OATs you may want to run the 200 deg switch...it's up to you. In hot climates, it's usually better for the fans to come on early vs late.

I would keep the one you have...it does get hot in the summer in El Paso ;) The 190 stat will keep you were you need to be coolant wise. BTW - get a Stant SuperStat if you go aftermarket. Before you cut the jiggle valve off, I would test it in a pot of water with a thermometer to make sure...

You want coolant temps at 190 deg or so...for the reasons stated. You will also run rich (ECU in warm-up enrichment) at coolant temps <180 deg. Fan operation is not a good reason to run a colder stat.

Install a 190 deg t-stat...not having one causes a problem ;) Cut the jiggle valve off and orient the hole at the top of the housing...you'll need the rubber gasket too. If your fans are kicking on at 185 deg, that should be warm enough for the ECU to go into closed-loop...that temp fan...

- TPS has nothing to do with closed-loop - Electric fans have nothing to do with closed-loop...disconnect and re-test per above to prove it...the "jump" was a voltage spike - Coolant temps have to be above 180 deg F for the ECU to go into closed-loop...you would have to have an oversize rad...

On a stock plenum, a bored or Grp a TB (67mm) is about your only option without significant work. You will still have to increase the inlet diameter on the plenum flange to match. There's one (an RC bored TB) for sale in the Mk III classifieds...a friend of mine has the RC TB and it works great.

Guru - Take a look at the B&M cool/fan combo...the core is 12x8x1.5...a bit smaller, but the fan will greatly improve air flow (especially where you are mounting it). The fan switches on at 175 degs...perfect match for the Mocal T-stat.

The STA signal is used for start engine start injection control...might want to look into the wiring...you want it to work. You do need the ECU coolant temp sensor shown in this pic...an ECU temp sensor problem should generate a code 22: The TCCS requires coolant temps to be above a...

You need to run a thermostat ;)