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"Thrust Washers"...there's 4 (2 matched pair) of them. The #4 main cap has grooves that mate to the halfs that have the notch on top.

I didn't realize chasing block threads was so difficult :rolleyes: Ian - I do exactly the same as you...same tools too!

Studs screw further into the block...if you don't chase them (and get the crap out out of the threads), you risk cracking between the holes and the water passages.

LOL @ Ian. He's right...you definitely want to chase the block threads to install studs. Personally...I wouldn't do the one at a time remove/replace. If you have a BHG (even an early one) it will likely not fix your problem. The stock head bolts are pretty stout...you can take them to...

Don't know where you can get ARP hardware down under, but I do know the torque settings (both using moly for lube): - ARP Bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head. - ARP Studs are 80 ft/lbs. I would use studs if given the choice.

Castrol European Formula 0W-30...more info here (post #4): http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 Yep, it's at Autozone...PepBoys is carrying it now too. The key is it says "Made in Germany" on the back.

I agree...I don't think the 5W-20 killed your turbo...it was already dead. You just didn't know it ;) I highly recommend German Castrol 0W-30 for a turbo motor. The viscosity is a bit thicker at ops temp and it's PAO base can really take the heat a turbo produces. Plus, the additive pack...

I took mine off...can't see any problem either.

I hear ya...that's why I pointed you at the LIPP. It has a Garrett center section (definite upgrade) and is a direct bolt on. The stock fuel system can handle it and it's only a few hundred $$$ more than getting the CT upgraded to a 57 trim wheel. One downside $$$ wise is you will have to...

Yes...that is correct. E1 is used for both the jumper (diagnostic mode...CEL flashing) and for the ground lead on the multimeter. You should get a fluctuation in voltage. Feed propane into the brake booster hose or it's fitting on the manifold.

That turbo looks like toast to me. It looked like the compressor wheel touched (or almost touched) the housing :aigo: Might as well send it out and get an upgrade while your at it ;) Or, grab one of these little beauties: http://www.suprasport.com/LIPP-BOSS-Jr_p_216-5350.html

LOL...some of you guys crack me up. I said that to support my "it depends" statement in that post. More of a general knowledge advantage when you use the math to figure out stuff like this for yourself vs looking for the cookbook answer. Good luck...it should be an interesting process for...

Yesterday you said (at 2500 RPM with T and E1 jumped): Today it's showing 5.0 volts? BTW - propane would be a better choice...you just using it to enrichen the mixture. If you are showing a steady 5.0 volts, something doesn't make sense.

Which is not going to happen ;) Might want to read this Brett: Dealing With the "Oldschool" Guys Brett - My little comment was provoked by your "without getting all Bill Nye the Science Guy" comment in another thread. If you're going to dish it out, be prepared to get the same in...

Do the math: http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx?UserID=1185286&SessionID=P5uM{2CIzx2JXkjLU6GB (or is that too technical for ya) :sarcasm:

Point at the coil pack and tell them "that's the flux capacitor" :D

And why do you want to do the 12V Mod?

Mk III TEWD http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/

At least the cams are nice and clean :D My bet is the bearings have already taken a hit. What you could do is get some kerosene and use it to flush the engine...turn it over for a 3-5 minutes with the EFI fuse pulled and the spark plugs removed. Drain the crap and refill with a 5W-20...

He did give him a range...looks like Poodles is trying to help to me. A "guess" at an answer does not help...in fact, if you guess in the Tech Section, you will take a hit. I'll be one of the 1st to slap you. Boost psi is a crappy measure for air flow on the Karman Vortex AFM the 7M...