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^^^ That's the order of the plug wires on the coil pack, from left to right. It's different than the cylinder firing order.

The fuel pump does not run (no jumper on B+ & FP) unless the car is being started or the engine is running. It's likely your problem lies elsewhere. Try getting someone to start the car while you wiggle the wires to the CPS leading to the connector.

Yeah it is, and if you remove the cams, there's a specific cap removal sequence: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=41 The caps go in order...the exhaust side is marked "E", intake side "I" and are numbered front to rear. And, a cap torque sequence...

You know, you are right...the TC will unlock in "D" for a coast. What I really meant to say was use "2nd"...downshift under 50-60 MPH. (it's been so long, my CRS kicked in...everytime I learn something new, something has to go ;))

You need a turbo engine harness (same year as the 86.5...an '87-'88 should work though), assuming you are going to use the turbo electronics. You can't use a NA harness due to differences like the AFM. This diagram shows the oil feed/return line...

I have an auto too and manually shift...don't over rev the tranny. The important think is to keep the RPM up and allow the engine to pull vacuum during the coast down. You can leave the tranny in "D" for the coast.

Would you like to share what you guys did to correct the timing?

Ummm...not exactly a "new" method ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

Fixed it for you ;) If you haven't figured it out yet, the text message BS doesn't float here. (that is if you want an answer) You really need to read this: Dealing With the Old School Guys

Yes.

What that does (it's a hydraulic activated valve) is increase engine idle speed when the car is turned hard at low speed. It prevents an engine stall from the load put on the engine from the P/S pump by opening an air path from the accordion hose to the intake manifold. It has nothing to do...

Are you using a K&N air filter? If so, it's crap...get an AEM dryflow if you are going to stick with a cone type filter. On other thing I noticed is your TBN has dropped to half of what that oil started at (11.3)...while Blackstone is correct concerning the additives and the TBN, a 50&#37...

The 12 volt mod does not get rid of the relay, it just moves a larger version to the back of the car. You do bypass the relay under the hood, but the new relay in the rear takes over it's function...it's switched on (under ECU control) using the stock wiring.

That is not a good idea ;) The ECU controls the FP...without Fp & +B jumped, it only operates when the motor is started or the motor is running. Bypassing the relay can defeat the way it's intended to function.

^^^ Ummmm...I think he's already done with the job ;)

You're welcome ;) That cooler has a nice bow in it!

It is if you want to do it right. At minimum, the journal should be checked, sized if necessary, and polished.

It does look good (except for the silicon of course). Your wear metals look good too...the oil is doing it's job. And no anti-freeze is always a good thing ;) Don't get a K&N filter...they are crap. If you are going to use a cone type, get an AEM Dryflow filter...much better choice. The...

Worn squirter bolts. You have to pull the engine (or at least the oil pan) to get to them.

^^^ That's the ticket right there ;)