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On a Mk III with a 7M...no. Mk III with a 2JZ...yes.

http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/vpc.htm

Boosted - If you want to us RP, the 5W-30 is what I would use. Like SC said above, he's been getting excellent results (backed by analysis) from the same oil on an 8000 mile change interval. Personally, I like Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30...also a PAO based oil. It's...

Try these guys: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Pretty sure you can get a metric bottoming tap for $18-20.

Thanks! I thought so, but wasn't sure if there was some other subtle effect.

JJ - any insight on this part?

Yep...that would be it (seems kinda pricey). You can use a bottom tap as well.

LOL...me too JJ!

Actually anytime after 1000-1500 miles is plenty. Yep, you're wrong ;) Read the Motor oil 101 link in my sig...that will open your eyes as to why you want to run an oil with the lowest 1st number you can find. And, don't be thinking a 0W-30 is "thin", the German Castrol the guys above are...

Ummmm.... I wouldn't use an 86mm MHG on a 83.5mm bore. Not unless you want a 2mm gap that will accumulate carbon (making for some nice hot spots) around the base of your combustion chamber. Cool your jets and order the Cometic....2.4mm thickness and an 83.5mm bore.

No, this is not correct. If the ECU temp sensor is disconnected the TCCS uses an 80 deg C (176 F) std temp...this is the threshold where the ECU goes from warm-up enrichment to normal ops, so there is no warm-up enrichment. If the engine is cranked when cold, it actually causes a lean...

I assume the above values are with the head/block decked and prep'ed (RA spec wise) for a MHG? To maintain stock CR (assuming stock CR pistons), you need a 2.427mm thick MHG. Stock bore is 83.0mm...if you bored 0.020" over, the MHG needs to be 83.5mm for the cylinder bore. A 2.0mm MHG...

You "heard" wrong...FP has nothing to do with the way the ECU implements fuel cut.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=36 BTW - mine does the same...with O/D off, 3rd stays engaged. RPM will reflect engine brake, but is not strong...it stays in the higher gear too long in "D". For what the OP wants to do, 2nd range is far better.

There is no "coast" mode per say, but in "D", you will have have the tranny stay in the higher gears longer. This limits the amount of engine braking (which you want). Use the 2nd range position...you will get to 4000 RPM faster and will have the engine braking effect. During the coast down...

I hope it's there...if not, it is one royal PITA to install due to limited space between the head and firewall. If you get an EGR from the junk yard, make sure you clean the valve out (not the modulator) really well...a few good blasts with brake cleaner to remove carbon. Make sure the valve...

Here's the diagram: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=4 Any EGR valve and modulator from a turbo Mk III will work...you will also need the VSV. There is a specific side the EGR vac modulator port is attached to the VSV, with the other side attached to...

:biglaugh: I almost spewed coffee all over my computer screen!

The 7M-GTE has a Karmen Vortex AFM, not a MAF. Cleaning the electronic sensor on it with carb or brake cleaner is a very, very bad idea.

LOL...yeah, that hole goes all the way to under the TB and is the path for EGR exhaust gas. I would call that a vac leak ;) I would install an EGR...it's benefits far out weigh any downside. The potentional of a lean condition caused by no EGR in the 3000-4000 RPM range under load can ruin...