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Running a BHG motor with coolant in the oil is a sure fire way to get follow-on rod knock. Coolant will FUBAR bearings in short order.

^^^ Correct...thanks! That can just be blocked off at the TB before you start the engine.

I take them up to 70 ft/lbs 1st 2 cycles, 75 ft/lbs 2nd 2 cycles, 80 ft/lbs final torque. I pre-load regardless if new or used.

Look at this for the coolant hose routing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2 Hose starts at the hard line that goes around the block, drivers side rear of the motor--->TB--->ISCV--->fitting on the bottom if the lower intake manifold, under the #2...

There is an access panel (3 screws) to the right of the spare tire...you should be able to get to the FP connector there. Don't confuse with the fuel level/quantity sender harness. The FP power wire is black with a red stripe in the '89 TEWD.

Do you have voltage at the pump harness connector above the tank with +B and FP jumped, key on?

Couldn't be because the owner doesn't have a clue as to how to keep the car maintained and running huh. Saying the Mk III is not reliable is illustrative of perspective and ability. It's only common among a certain type person...the same type that will have issues with a new car as well ;)...

No....this ^^^ is what you said. The people that have reliability problems are addressed by SC's quote in my sig ;) I assume you are one of those.

That is correct...studs finger tight, nuts torqued to 80 ft/lbs using moly (ARP spec). Multiple passes in the TSRM pattern. One thing often missed torquing on a head...setting proper pre-load:

True...just making sure. You never know around here ;)

Did you chase the holes in the block? Did you put the studs in 1st then place the head on?

27mm...1 1/16" should work too.

Yep! The Fed's get enough of my hard earned $$$ without me giving them a free loan ;)

You shouldn't take stock head bolts over 70-75 ft/lbs. Spec for ARP studs are 80 ft/lbs w/ moly. ARP head bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs w/ moly on an aluminum head.

And, we are pointing out you fu*ked up by over torquing your studs...that's all ;) Back on topic.

Sure sounded like a recommendation to me...nice tap dance. Funny, since ARP specifically recommends NOT to exceed spec torque...the reason, read the link SC posted. Another myth BTW...an extension does not affect torque values at the fastener. You're batting a 1000 so far sport ;)

And, you over torqued them ;) You need to do some reading on the ARP tech site before you start recommending an over torque like you know what you're talking about. Frankly, it's not very smart.

The 7M is not fragile...it is however, very intolerant of even minor errors in it's assembly. The block/head decks need to be both smooth and flat. If not, the MHG will not seal.

ARP studs can be reused...in fact, they are better once "seasoned". ARP spec for studs using moly for lube is 80 ft/lbs...that is what you should use, not the "I heard" specs ;) If you are going to use a Cometic MHG, both the block and head decks have to meet a 50 RA smoothness spec.

Max on stock bolts is 70-75 ft/lbs...you do not want to re-use those ;) If you get ARP hardware later, pay attention to the torque specs on the sheet that comes with them and use moly for lube. Do not use the "I heard" spec your buddies tell you.