If it's a regular Puralator filter, it does but it's crap. PureOne filters are much better. Wix or NAPA Gold (it's a Wix) are my favorite due to internal valve design...both the bypass and anti-drainback are superior. And, yes, if the pump has to fill the filter 1st you will get temporary oil...
That's a great idea...make it as cheap as possible so it will look good and not do squat. Personally, I could care less if the "masses" can afford a quality fabrication that affords the protection of the stock part in a crash. If you don't have the $$$ to play, get another car.
You can make that argument, but IMO that's taking it a bit far. What will get you is TBN, the ability of the oil to neutralize the acidic byproducts of combustion. I know you can take a PAO or ester based synthetic to 15K miles or more...if you do that without doing oil analysis, you are...
For PAO and ester based oils...no. That's why they are used in jet turbines (ester is the 1st choice now) ;)
Not "loosing viscosity" is kind of a misstatement....all oils, including synthetics, drop in viscosity as they get hot. The difference is a PAO or ester synthetic will retain...
Poodles pretty much nailed it...what's going to help the smoking problem is to fix it ;)
Go with GC 0W-30 ot Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. That knock you're hearing just might be reduced flow to the bearings till the oil warms up.
Concerning filters, read this...
Try this (also a link in post #50 this thread):
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1005476&postcount=4
Post # 47 this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1231920&postcount=47
Read the link jetjock posted (#53 in this thread)...
Change GC that often and you will be dumping perfectly good oil down the drain ;)
You can go 12,000 kms easy on a fill...just change the filter at 6,000 kms. Believe it or not, changing your oil TOO OFTEN has the exact opposite effect you would expect. There is a very good case for increased...
Just to clarify something: There are 1 or 2 screws (depending on early/late model) on a 7M TB that can affect idle. One is to adjust the TB plate stop via the linkage on the side and is used to set the TPS in the proper position to sense IDL on/off. This is the most common reason you can get...
Last I heard WalMart and Canadian Tire was carrying it in Canada...just make sure it says "Made in Germany" on the back. You're going to like GC and you're going to like not changing it so often...that I am sure of ;)
dumbo - If you want to use a syn diesel oil in the Turcell, Delo 400 Syn 0W-30 is a better choice for your climate vs Rotella T (it's a bit too thick). Another is Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. I like the Pennzoil better, but either will perform quite well.
GC beats GTX hands down for the 7M ;)...
I'm no bench racer...I don't have to explain crap to you (I see it does a lot of good). And, I am done with you and your insults.
I'm not here to prove anything...sorry it intimidates you.
Got the same books sport...and, a couple others you obviously don't. Not my fault you seem to...
That phrase..."made from a proprietary blend of base oils,which includes PAO" is what got my attention about this oil. Mobil 1 uses almost the exact phrasing when they describe their oil. More info will surface, but it has the appearance of an advanced Grp III oil...time will tell if it will...
Rotella T is one of the best dino oils out there IMO...I use it in my Ford 7.3L diesel. Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 still have healthy doses of ZDDP in their formulation. That makes both pretty popular with the domestic muscle car crowd running flat tappet cam V8's.
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