Bad gas?...as in lower octane that shown on the pump? When the knock sensors detect a 7 kHz frequency, the ECU retards timing...that's why they are there. The stronger the frequency, the more the ECU retards timing. You get a tank of "bad gas", the performance is consistent....when engine...
I don't have any experience with the Apexi, so I don't bad mouth it. The media is very similar to the AEM DryFlow, so I imagine it will do a good job too.
I do know the cloth oil type (K&N) and the foam type (HKS) are crap.
I have seen flushes done with kerosene...you remove the plugs and...
Solid grounds are always a good thing. However, for a code 11, the most common issue are the grounds that attach to the intake manifold as previously posted. Those are the ones that directly affect the ECU.
Well...those are pretty much all bad assumptions.
1) Where in this thread does the OP say he's running a larger turbo? Off we go on a vector that has nothing to do with thread topic.
2) Grim is correct - The 7M ECU selects basic engine timing from values stored in memory. It then...
JDM tyte...YO! LMAO.
So reduced chance of part throttle detonation and increased gas mileage doesn't appeal to you...interesting :sarcasm:
BTW - This is a NA...it does not belong in the General section. Moved.
One thing you must do with a MHG - the smoothness spec (RA spec) has to be met for it to seal properly. That means the head/block decks have to be machined to that spec. For HKS, the RA spec is 30 or less.
For ARP hardware, you use the torque values on the spec sheet that comes with. For...
Grim - I don't think you are missing anything...I'm confused too...the above does not make sense. Especially the part about causing rod knock. Care to explain (in detail vs general statements) how/why boosting under part throttle conditions is an issue with piggyback fuel control?
Ummm...no you don't. Maybe on a Honda, but not on a 7M. SupraCentral called it dead on...and to add, exactly how to you think you will get the stock ECU to control the issues SC posted? The answer: you can't. You will need a standalone EMS to handle it...you need 272 cams like you need...
You are missing the point...personally I could care less if you go turbo, or strap JATO bottles on the side of the car. You are demonstrating basic knowledge deficiencies concerning this engine. Wanting to use 272 cams and oversize valves is a case in point...you have no clue how either will...
If the 100A fusible link is blown, the starter will not work.
Two fuses that need to be checked are the 7.5A Ignition and 15A Engine fuses. Both are in the drivers side kick panel.
Fonz - Suggest you test the alternator per the TSRM link I posted.
What I've been reading is you changing your mind more often than a guy changes his underwear. That (and a few other nuggets) suggests you need to read more and do less at this point in time.
Good luck...I think you're going to need it.
Going with oversize valves will only be useful if you plan on a high HP build (big turbo) and need the flow through the head...there's a lot more to it than just the valves. If you are staying with a NA motor, oversize valves on this motor will not do anything for you.
A deep socket (the right diameter), a rag and a rubber mallet ;)
I hope you kept the lifters in the correct order so you can put them back in the same location.
Don't lay the head combustion chamber down on a hard surface, you risk bending the valves. Actually, a valve job is something I...
If the crank was turned to TDC, #1 and #6 would be at TDC and the remaining pistons would follow the same type pattern you described. In this case, the crank was not set at TDC.
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