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Stock head height = 116mm deck to valve cover surface Stock block height = 198.5mm deck to main crank saddle Don't complicate the math...measure your head/block and see where you stand in terms of material already removed. I would not spend a penny on an unknown head until it was hardness...

Personally, I have little trust in machine shops...you need to check their work. One other thing to consider is has the head/block decks ever been resurfaced previously. If the block has and you've removed that much more, might want to consider a new block.

Rennat -I've seen pressures in excess of 80-90 psi when it's cold on a shimmed pump...if it drops fairly quickly, it should be fine. Instead of using two conventional filters on your dual head, changing one to a Trasko bypass filter would significantly increase your overall filter efficiency...

A new gasket should fix that. The valve plunger/seat might need a good cleaning too. Clean the check valve while your at it.

That is an awful lot to take off :nono: But, to answer your question it's: Material removed from the block deck (mm) + material removed from the head deck (mm) + 1.37mm (stock HG thickness compressed).

Vacuum is created by the interaction of the pistons, valves and cam...the ISCV has no effect on vac readings other than controlling engine RPM. Read this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_gauge_readings.aspx At idle the TB plate is closed, metered air is pulled in (with vac)...

Cajun is correct, the max you want to take stock head bolts up to is 70-75 ft/lbs. More torque is not better. Depending on the condition of the HG, you can induce a BHG at this point. (Hence the more harm than good comment)

That's the correct type filter, but you want the make sure the diameter (in this case 6") matches the adapter to your AFM. The lowest 1st number you can get...in the case for Lucas, there is not a huge difference between the 5W-30 and 10W-30 cold viscosity wise. A lower 1st number...

How about a link?

Read this thread...I talk about RP in post #3. The info has not changed. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768

On the stock ECU...a very crappy idle.

A cooling system in good operating order should never need to be "burped".

Get a Stant SuperStat or a Toyota OEM at 190 degs. Test it (I've had new ones that are bad) before you install. Pressure test the system. The air could be from your heater problem (trapped in the core due to limited flow).

^^^ What a novel idea!

Here's a better idea. Take your t-stat out and remove the jiggle valve...test it to make sure it opens (all the way) at the specified temp (should be 190 degs). Sounds like your stat is sticking part way open...the upper rad hose should be very hot to the touch. The t-stat may need to be...

Hence this question: A Wix filter (NAPA Gold too) has the bypass built at the filter intake/output holes. That filter would have little oil in it if the valve was stuck open from the beginning. The valve design is also one reason why I like Wix filters ;)

Is the upper rad hose getting hot when it does this? You heat is likely a different issue...the heater control valve is not working.

Doesn't tell us a whole lot sport ;)

There are 3 relief valves: - One on the pump. - One on the turbo filter head that supplies the cooler (this is the one that dumps to the pan). - One inside a conventional filter...also called a bypass valve. This one allows oil to freely flow if the filter is clogged...un-filtered oil will...

Wait a minute...you can't tell if the filter ever had oil inside it? :3d_frown: