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Kangae - Yes it's ok with a PAO (GC) or ester (Red Line) synthetic...over an 8K OCI and I would definitely do analysis. The make-up oil you add when changing filters also replenishes the additive pack. In fact, there's a very good case that changing oil too often will increase engine wear.

To clarify: The CEL stays on (no blink) both when the ignition key is on and with the engine running, with the TE1/E1 terminals jumped? Are you absolutely positive you jumped the correct diagnostic terminals?

A couple weeks...it's worthwhile doing Pete. Besides wear metals, it also will show fuel dilution and coolant in the oil ;) TBN will tell you when it needs to be changed too. If you decide to do so, post the results in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66757

Huh? :: no :: I'd like to here how a colder plug would significantly affect EGT. I'd buy off on preventing pre-ignition, detonation, misfires or fouling though. ;) http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp? To be fair, an ignition problem can affect EGT, but...

^^^ That's the way to do it ;) Pete - you might want to add a Blackstone analysis (including a TBN) to your 4000 mile interval.

Highly unlikely an oil filter change would cause the noise he describes. I was simply responding to the recommendation for a Toyota filter ;) A stethoscope would help isolate the location.

Ummm...Toyota filters are medicore at best. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 The only ones worth using are the Denso Japan filters and finding those in the US is rather difficult. If you want a good filter, use a Wix or NAPA Gold.

If this crank has never been turned, the blue discoloration is from the factory induction hardening process used on the journals. If you are correct about particles in the oil as the cause, it demonstrates why you want to use a good oil & air filter ;)

You want to run the BCPR7ES for a 1 step colder plug, and that is if you are above stock boost levels. Gap at 0.028". The BCPR7ES plugs are JIS height, BKR7E plugs are ISO height (same as Autolite 3923). With some plug wires, the shorter height will cause arcing between the wire and plug...

- Timing Belt tensioner spring - Cam seals - Oil pump drive shaft seal - CPS o-ring & cam cover gaskets - 3 accessory drive belts - Upper/Lower rad hoses, hoses to TB & ISCV (or bypass), turbo coolant hoses, 90 deg hose behind water pump, 90 deg hose at rear of head, heater hoses - Inspect...

Vs Amsoil ATM 10W-30, give the ASL 5W-30 a try. Virtually identical viscosity's at ops temp with the ASL having a small advantage cold. ;) I highly doubt the Mobil 1 was the cause. I don't care for that oil, but it will run just fine in a 7M. Wisco - NP! :)

The Valvoline "synthetic" is a Grp III oil and is on par with Mobil 1...Pennzoil Platinum is also a Grp II, but the hydrocracking process/add pack used in it's formulation is superior to both. Free is a different matter...I would use Valvoline if I could get it for free...the price is right ;)...

If it's the K&N oil type air filter, pretty sure it's the same media: http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm Per the testing above, it does flow air very well...for a very good reason...it lets an lot of dirt past. Note: This link used ISO 5011 testing procedures with a $285K...

GC is a specific oil. For oil filters: Wix, NAPA Gold, or PureOne. I prefer Wix (NAPA Gold is made by Wix) due to the bypass valve design and it is an excellent filter. More info here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 K&N air filters are crap. #1 - they don't...

#1 - Mobil 1 is not a "full synthetic". It is a Grp III hydrocracked base stock...for the price you pay there are better alternatives. If you want to use a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better oil. #2 - "German Castrol" is the nickname for Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it...

1st - Check ECU codes. 2nd - You need to drill out the J tube with a Walbro.

The bottom one, shown here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=33 It does work off ground. I wouldn't use it to control an electric radiator fan though...a 180-190 deg on switch is a better choice. Once coolant hits ~210 degs, the ECU starts pulling timing.

The two stock fan switches operate well above those temps. One functions on @ 234 degs & off @ 225 degs. The other comes on at 212 degs & off at 203 degs. You will have to find an aftermarket switch to do what you want.

The condensor and aux fans use switches on the thermo housing. There's the cold start injector time switch too. It would help if we knew what you are trying to do.

This should help: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838