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Very likely it's the cam cover gaskets...get some 6x1.0mm x 27-30mm long hex cap head bolts and internal star washers to secure the covers. Torque to 22 in/lbs (NOT Ft/lbs) or 25 kg/cm. Another source of oil is the large hex plugs that secure the center cover...if the center cover rubber seal...

You want to use a GL4 gear oil like Red Line MT-90. A GL5 will work, but does contain the friction modifiers used in an LSD unless specifically mentioned on the gear oil data sheet. Personally, I would use either Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4 or Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4. Having said...

Might want to read this concerning Valvoline SynPower gear oil: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66236

A better option IMO ;)

Doesn't tell us a whole lot without knowing the brand/type...frankly, an impossible question to answer.

AN sizes are in fractions of 16th's...for example: AN-8 = 1/2" AN-10 = 5/8" And so on...so, yes the bigger the AN number, the larger the hose/fitting.

The igniter has nothing to do with a code 41 ;) The TPS itself or it's wiring to the ECU is a different story.

The TSRM is your friend ;) http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=5 BTW - there is no PCV valve on the 7M...it uses an orifice on the TB to limit flow when under boost. You may need to clean it.

Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 should be able to handle those temps nicely. Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (Cerman Castrol) will perform well too.

Rennat - All of the Castrol oils sold in the USA are Grp III hydrocracked oils with one exception, Castrol European Formula. It's identified by the "Made in Germany" on the back label...it's not the fact it was made in Germany, it's the only PAO base stock, Grp IV oil on the shelf at your...

Did this MHG come off this engine? And, did you compare the OEM HG holes to the MHG holes? How about a pic of the hole misalignments...it should fit with no issues (assuming it's for this motor ;))

Yes...it's an issue and needs to be fixed. The fuel system should hold at least 21 psi for 5 minutes.

Next to where the pick-up tube attaches to the pump body you will see a fair sized silver bolt with a hole in the middle. That is the pump relief valve. Take the bolt out...a coiled spring is under it. Put no more than 5mm thickness worth of washers between the spring and the bolt...

Shim the cooler relief valve too much and you will cut off flow to the cooler...I'd go 2mm max. Better yet, dump the stock filter head and install a thermostat controlled cooler circuit. It looks like you were just unlucky...the relief bolt may have been installed incorrectly or over...

Lesson learned: Never go cheap on the oil pump ;) (That is an Aisin OEM housing though) Did you shim the relief spring for more pressure? If so, how much (in mm) did you shim it?

The O2 will not cause this problem...A/F feedback goes into open loop during power enrichment (i.e. you go to WOT). It will cause crappy fuel mileage/poor emissions and needs to be fixed. A bad O2 signal will not cause the ECU to enter fail safe or back-up mode. When you checked for IC...

That computer is the TCCS (or ECU)...it controls injection, timing, idle, etc...pretty much everything that makes the engine run. You can't disconnect it and it's very rare for the ECU to go bad.. It would help if you posted an accurate description of the problem. Check your ECU codes too.

Ummmm....water is a byproduct of normal combustion. Could be the reason you're seeing it is it's cold outside. If you're worried about a BHG, get an coolant exhaust gas (block) tester from NAPA. A HG change is a lot of work, why do it if it's not the problem. BTW, I highly suggest you...

Something to think about: The OEM damper has rubber in it...heat is not good for rubber. Not too sure I would use that damper.

That's because you "set idle" with the TB linkage stop screw...it can't be done. The ISCV will just change it back to what the ECU determines as target idle. You will continue to chase your tail till you do.