Guys i have a problem at all times with the car stayin on . It just wont idle correctly , heres the deal. Can somebody TELL me what the computer or what ever other component doess when you DISCONNECT THE AFM. Because when i disconnect the AFM it purrs and idles like it should. Does timing change , adds or subtracts fuel can somebody tell me plz so i can look into the problem any advice would be appreciated thanks ....
Idling problem help!!!!!
- Thread starter wardog
- Start date
That computer is the TCCS (or ECU)...it controls injection, timing, idle, etc...pretty much everything that makes the engine run. You can't disconnect it and it's very rare for the ECU to go bad..
It would help if you posted an accurate description of the problem. Check your ECU codes too.
It would help if you posted an accurate description of the problem. Check your ECU codes too.
From your vague description you could have an issue with the AFM electronics as your symptom is effected directly from messing with the connector. Check codes and give a better explanation of your issue.
Guys pulled the codes today 12, 24, 25 ? I had the afm disconnected when i pulled em ...I also found out that when i pull the first wire starting from left to right on the coil pack, idle does not change and with the rest of em it does BAD COILpack???
wardog;1206700 said:
i would plug the afm and check again..and use the tsrm to check your coils. check that plug wire also.
When you say wire, do you mean the plug wire (high tension lead) or do you mean the coil harness plug (i.e. two small wires that plug into the bottom of the coil)?
cjsupra90;1206848 said:
i meant the 'high tension lead' haha, and the coils itself for proper resistance.
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If you pull one of the wires and nothing changes, then that cylinder is dead (so to speak).
Could be a bad wire, bad plug, bad injector, bad injector wiring or possible a problem with that cylinder engine wise like extremely low or no compression..... I would first check the resistance of that particular wire (Typically, OEM style wires are 1000ohms per foot. High performance wires are usually a bit lower (resistance value per foot))... Another way to check is to grab an extra plug and pull that wire out (off of cylinder), plug in the exta plug that you grabbed, lay the plug thread / hex area on a good grounded surface and start the car. If your getting good spark then that rules out the plug wire. Next pull the plug and inspect it, or simply try another plug. If no luck with that, then the problem is either fuel related like bad injector or wiring or a problem with that cylinder in the engine.
Could be a bad wire, bad plug, bad injector, bad injector wiring or possible a problem with that cylinder engine wise like extremely low or no compression..... I would first check the resistance of that particular wire (Typically, OEM style wires are 1000ohms per foot. High performance wires are usually a bit lower (resistance value per foot))... Another way to check is to grab an extra plug and pull that wire out (off of cylinder), plug in the exta plug that you grabbed, lay the plug thread / hex area on a good grounded surface and start the car. If your getting good spark then that rules out the plug wire. Next pull the plug and inspect it, or simply try another plug. If no luck with that, then the problem is either fuel related like bad injector or wiring or a problem with that cylinder in the engine.
Oh, dont even worry about the coil cause it fires both cylinders at the same time so you would have lost both that are connected to that coil, not just one of them....
dumbo;1206914 said:
The ignition system on a GTE engine is whats called Waste Spark. This type of set up fires 2 cylinders at the same time. One thats on compression stroke and one that is 180 degrees out which is on exhaust stroke. Cylinder pairs are 1 & 6, 2 & 5, and 3 & 4. Each of those groups are matching in thier stroke, but they are 180 degrees out from each other because of the cams so when one is on intake stoke in the match pair, the other is on power stroke, and so on. By doing a waste spark setup, you only need half the number of ignition channel circuits and use twin tower coils or two coils being driven by one channel. One is firing the compression stroke and the other is wasted cause its firing on the exhaust stroke hence the name waste spark. Because they are twin tower coils, if a coil goes out, you lose two cylinders So if the coil that fires cylinders 1 & 6 goes bad, then you loose both 1 & 6...
Hope this help you to understand it better....
cjsupra90;1206926 said:
ok that makes total sense..i thought you meant 'the engine' fired two cylinders at the same time. learn somthing everyday crazy
dumbo;1206929 said:
Well technically it does, but yeah not, not two power strokes at the same time.
I got just got an extra set of coil packs so im gonna swap that coil and check the spark plug. I just replaced my spark plugs on may of this year. As far as compression goes its 175 +/- 2 on all cylinders, so they are ok since i just did a full engine rebuild on may 
. Im gonna swap the coils tomorrow and check spark plug, as far as spark plug wires go they are new ngks that i bought on may also. I reset the codes and so far none yet after 1 hour of driving around. Thanks for the info you learn a new thin every day .... ill post tomorrow with results..
. Im gonna swap the coils tomorrow and check spark plug, as far as spark plug wires go they are new ngks that i bought on may also. I reset the codes and so far none yet after 1 hour of driving around. Thanks for the info you learn a new thin every day .... ill post tomorrow with results..wardog;1207471 said:I got just got an extra set of coil packs so im gonna swap that coil and check the spark plug. I just replaced my spark plugs on may of this year. As far as compression goes its 175 +/- 2 on all cylinders, so they are ok since i just did a full engine rebuild on may
Its not the coil... Like I said before, if it was the coil, you would have lost two cylinders, not just one......
Did you do a compression test since the problem developed?
Just because the wires are 7 months old doesn't mean that you cant have a bad one....
If compression is good and the plug and wire is good, then my guess would be a bad fuel injector
The injectors are fresh rebuilt and flow tested 550s along with the brand new walbro afpr and fuel filter... YOu know when i disconnected the first wire on the coil it bareeeeely changed the idle and the other side didnt chage at all ill try out the new coil and check spark plug in the morning...
Ok, if you unhooked one whole coil (two wires) and got no change, then yeah there's a good possibility that you've got a bad coil but in a previous post you said that one wire didn't make a differance but everyother did make a noticable differance.... Contradicting and or inaccurate information doesn't help others to help you with problems that you might be having.....
And again, just cause you got some rebuilt and flow tested injectors doesn't mean that you cant have a bad one (Injector coil windings do go bad and they are not changed in rebuilt injectors)....
And again, just cause you got some rebuilt and flow tested injectors doesn't mean that you cant have a bad one (Injector coil windings do go bad and they are not changed in rebuilt injectors)....