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It would also help if you posted in the correct section...moved to 7M-GE Tech. Per above, an exhaust for the turbo motor is not going to perform well on a N/A engine.

That is not going to make it run like you described...the turbo seal refers to the oil that flows through the turbo. It keeps oil from leaking out of the center section to the exhaust/intake. Like I said in post #3 above...it sounds like a boost leak in your IC piping. You have to check...

Omg...lol!

That all run? ;)

I agree you want to minimize boost...you don't have to go to WOT on these runs. An aggressive acceleration above 4,000-4,500 RPM is sufficient. But, putting vacuum on the rings is just as important. During the coast down for the next run, you want to downshift in order to maximize vacuum...

Not only the crimp, but the old wiring may be an issue as well. Did you read ohms by referencing the chart in the TRSM? You have to heat the sensor up in a pot of water using a thermometer and read K ohms per the chart left side. Is your WB O2 calibrated?

As stated...NEVER use a sealant on AN fittings ;)

I'm thinking you should get the motor running right before you tackle this kind of project. It's complicated and will require a LOT of customized work ;)

I wouldn't call that "runs great"...be a bit more descriptive as to what it does, when, and at what RPM. Check codes like Shaeff said. Based on the limited info, it sounds like a boost leak in your IC piping.

Ahhh...I missed this statement too :3d_frown: When you did the above, did you connect the TE1 and E1 terminals on the diagnostic block? You may have missed JJ's earlier post...the grounds for the ECU connect at the intake manifold. Did you remove them, clean the connectors, and reconnect?

Keep in mind, this version of RP is break-in oil ;) Their standard line of oils is ok to use (it's a PAO base), but German Castrol is better due to the add pack IMO. Stay away from the XPR line..."Racing" oil is not better for use in a street machine.

^^^ Ditto ;) I agree with the other guys...you do have a expectation of at least the level of competence to do the job. Take the head to the shop and see what they say.

Yes, Red Line does make a additive they call "Engine Break-in"...it too is for flat-tappet motors. It contains ZDDP as well. A little background on why the RP break-in oil and Red Line additive exist. Zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) is a high pressure anti-wear additive that was in common use...

Ahhhh...Tracy CA. Home of the "Tracy Aces" as they were called back in the day of '80's aviation. Yep, I know where you are now...it doesn't get that cold there ;) Gas chromatography/mass spectrometry analysis was done on GC and I have sent samples to Blackstone for analysis. It showed GC...

Zerex G-05 HOAT coolant is as good or better ;)

No CEL = no ECU power = no start A push start will not cause this. Perhaps a basic, dumb question...have you checked the EFI fuse in the engine bay fuse box?

Code 52 = knock sensor. Code 51 = TPS IDL signal. The coil pack ground to the motor had nothing to do with your start problem...it's a field ground. Basically a drain for stray voltage. Whatever fixed the car was a coincidence when you redid the ground. Code 41 is a problem with the VTA...

Note that it says "particularly those using flat-tappet cams" like you find on the old Chevy motors...that pretty much means it has a fairly high dose of ZDDP in the add pack. The engines you find in Supra's don't require the same levels as a flat-tappet cam engine. While it shouldn't hurt...

Sorry about that...I misread what you said. During decel the motor is under vacuum...worn valve seals/guides can cause blue smoke in this case. Another thing to check is the PCV system for proper operation.

That's debatable and I am...hopefully to point out a couple things that Rennat does that can contribute to this kind of thing. First, Rennat has a tendency to go with the lowest cost part and/or service provider. The key here is cost...you get exactly what you pay for whether it's a machine...