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A 2 sec search for "Boost Leak" in the Mk III Reference/Tech Tips yielded...Tada! http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19718&highlight=Boost+Leak

So, which one are you then? ;) You torqued stock head bolts to 85 ft/lbs? Dump the electric cut-out idea (no gain)...Metal IC piping will help.

A bit over kill, but like you said, it won't hurt either. Switching over to a syn oil at the 1,500 mile point is perfectly safe....i.e. sub 1,500 for 1,000 above and switch to a syn oil with a Wix filter. If the motor is not broke in by the 1,500 mile point, it's not going to break in ;)

The answer is in the Lube Section...this sticky to be exact: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

My 1st syn fill after break-in was Mobil 1 5W-30...it was ok, but my brand new motor was making valve noise. (I also discovered what Mobil 1 really was). I switched to SSO and the noise actually got a bit worse, especially at start-up. GC was what finally got it to quiet down...like I said...

Pretty sure the early racks did not have progressive power steering...the '89 does.

Only thing I don't like about Amsoil is the price (expensive) and the way they market. Overall, Amsoil blends very a good oil...keep in mind the XL line is a Grp III base stock, which Amsoil (to their credit) freely tells you so. SSO is a PAO oil...it's excellent. So are the EaO...

Yeah... know. I kinda have to split hairs because of the volumes of misinfo about oil floating around and if I let something slide, it ends up coming back to bite me. The 5W-30 is the thicker oil at ops temp, but not enough of a difference to mean squat. The 10W-30 is fine to use and...

LOL...yes I have...as they say: "All the engineers in hell are French" ;) That point is very valid...loose the FC signal to the circuit opening relay and the car stops dead in it's tracks.

Just a FYI - I live in Phoenix (lived in S. FL and Tampa for a while too) and I know for a fact it's definitely hotter here. I use 0W-30 GC. ;) It appears (I could be wrong) you are misunderstanding what the 10W-30 numbers mean. All the 10W shows is how the oil will behave cold...it has...

Not necessary. If you tap into the wire pre-FP relay, it will simply actuate both relays at the same time. The ECU FP wire's sole purpose is to actuate the FP relay...it does not provide power directly to the pump. Actually, after looking at the diagram a bit closer, there will be a problem...

Well the FP relay is not powered until the STA signal is active...it is powered during start though. You could use the FP wire from the ECU to the FP relay to activate another relay (connected to battery or IGN power) to do what you want. The yellow wire (mid right side) in this pic...

;)

You have a boost leak...time to make a tester so you can pressurize the IC piping.

More likely dehydrated dog sh*t :boink:

Me either, and me too ;) The presence of "testimonials" on that website is usually a sure fire snake oil indicator. Ian - the vertebrae? :D

Based on what I've seen inside the Thailand filters, it would not surprise me....I do not use them. I am not as familiar with the 1JZ, but the oil-to-coolant circuit may also have something to do with it too. It's position is pretty high on the engine vs the 7M...what I don't know is how oil...

OZ - Nice post...a couple things though. Here is RP's latest data sheet: http://royalpurple.com/prod-pdfs/motor-oil-ps.pdf Note that the ops temp viscosity is only a 0.2 cst difference between the 5W and 10W-30 oils...there is a 5.0 cst difference at the cold viscosity. Either oil will...

The only Toyota OEM filters worth using are the Denso JP version...the ones made in Thailand (what you get in the US) are crap. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 There are much better oils available in the UK than Mobil 1 too...Castrol Edge comes to mind. One of the...

Cam cover gasket or cam shaft seals.