Search results

I think the word "auto reset" is the key here ;) Likely when the load is removed...you would need to do a bit of research for specifics.

Guys that sell 1JZ swaps...like DriftMotion ;)

Like a fuse, but you can reset it. Think power distribution panel on a house.

Or, a PWN'd fuel pump ;) (I know what I would pick...LOL)

There is only 1 PWM output on an AEM iirc.

You need the pressure in the tank to prevent pump cavitation...2 psi is correct. Regardless of how "many" have done it...you can't say there are no issues. This kind of thing rears it's ugly head at times when you don't expect and is usually blamed on something else. Like guys that...

It's spelled "before". You can't correctly set timing with a code 51 present...especially with idle RPM at 1500. If you are going to work on this car, you need to understand the TSRM...if not, take it to someone that does.

You would have to tap the round flat spot on the side of the water neck above the ECU coolant sensor. There is no flow through the rad when the T-stat is closed...you could remove the jiggle valve at the top of the T-stat, leaving a small hole for constant flow. This is a good mod to do...

So, you've removed the AC condensor fan? Removing the stock, bottom sensor on the T-stat housing disables the condensor fan. The problem with having both thermo switches on the radiator side of the T-stat is coolant doesn't flow past the stat till it opens...if the T-stat is rated at a...

So both switches are in the thermostat housing (forward of the T-stat)? What is the temp rating of the T-stat? What is the power source for the 2 relays that supply power to each of the low/high legs of the fans? Is the fuse(s) blowing only when the high speed actuates?

I would do this: Wire the low setting to come on at 70-75 deg C...the high setting at 90-95 deg C. Place the 1st temp sensor on the water neck (engine side of thermostat), the 2nd sensor on the radiator side. Have each actuate a relay with separate, fused power sources for the low/high fan...

That gap should be ok for the boost you're running...if you get a high RPM miss, drop it down to .027".

Arcing plug wires will definitely cause a miss Kenny...I was assuming they were good. What kind of plugs are you using and what is the gap? I would still check what I suggested previously...you should be able to time at 10 deg BTDC. What was your idle speed when you checked it?

There is one other possibility...the damper key way. If the damper bolt is loose, you need to pull it and inspect. I really, really hope this is not the case...it's bad :(

It would all be speculation Kenny - There wouldn't be enough slack to smack the cover, but enough to jump a tooth. Do this (pull the EFI fuse while you do it): - Put the damper index at zero - Confirm BOTH cam gear index are pointing at the rear cover mark - Remove the #1 spark plug and...

The CPS does work off the exhaust cam. Could be either...or, the rubber inside your crank damper decided to twist itself up.

Nothing that can't be worked around with a speed density set-up ;) That Auto Shop article is still useful...the Karmen Vortex AFM is explained starting on page 7. Pretty easy to see why you never want to use carb/MAF cleaner on it...screws the optics up.

Kenny - You might have jumped a tooth on your timing belt. Suggest you check valve timing is set up correctly. Check for boost leaks too.

Take a look at the wastegate bracket...see if there are any washers between the actuator bracket and turbo housing. If there are, remove them. As suggested, your wastegate actuato might be getting a bit "tired".

You might have to replace it and the donut gasket...not too expensive at the dealer. Once they clog up, it's 50/50 as to if it will work.