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Here's some advice: 1) Take some time before you post to look around the site and read the stickys. Learn to use the search feature and post in the correct section. 2) Ask complete detailed, questions. 3) RTFM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ Thread moved.

A very, very stupid thing to do...especially for a part that really doesn't do jack. :3d_frown:

Best piece of advice: Do not use a MHG unless you are going to have BOTH the head and block resurfaced. Otherwise, use a Toyota OEM HG...you can buy a complete head kit (HG, cam seals, etc) from Toyota...Champion Toyota in Houston will give you the best price. Use ARP studs or bolts and...

Real Aeromotive or a Chinese copy? Does FP change (increase) when you unplug the vac line?

Using that cleaner is a sure fire way to FUBAR the AFM on a 7M turbo motor. It is not a MAF...It is an AFM A Karmen Vortex AFM...I really wish you guys would get that straight. And, yes there is a difference. The device you posted simply allows you to use a GM MAF...personally, I think...

Bernie - The required retorques I've seen are about 50/50 with studs....almost 100% with bolts. Of the ones where pre-load was set using the tighten/loosening cycles ARP recommends, zero actually required a retorque...did it anyway because there is no downside to doing it.

I wasn't breast fed as a child and now I'm scarred for life. Whenever I see bare breasts, I want to rub, squeeze and suck on em :biglaugh:

A basic street tune is fine to get it running. For serious power, you better budget for several hours on the dyno to determine your limits. Then, back to the street to refine the tune within those limits.

10mm for the head bolts...14mm for the center cover.

If you note the dimension for thread length of the ARP stud vs the stock bolt, the ARP stud is longer. It's not the crap in the bottom of the hole so much (it does need to be removed), it's the crap in the threads where the stock bolts have not contacted in 15-20 years. It doesn't take much...

It's usually the ground. You can determine if is the ground or power side by following JJ's suggestion in a recent thread: Take a long wire and ground to the battery terminal. Attach the other end to the ECU at the ground terminal. If the CEL goes away, you know it's the ground.

Mobil 1 is a middle of the road Group III hydrocracked dino oil...it's not a "true" PAO or ester based synthetic. There are far better oils out there...if you are going to run a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum is much better due to the hydrocracking process used to produce it and it's additive...

Thread restored. Someone else may find the answer useful.

Highly frowned on...don't do this again. Threads merged.

You need an auto wiring harness, an ETC (tranny computer), and an auto ECU. This assumes the 5M & 7M A340E bell housings are the same. Depending on what's in your car now, might be more trouble than it's worth.

LOL...you missed the whole section too ;) (the one on Forum page #1)

Nope...if someone tells you to adjust the idle stop screw or the air bypass screw on early TB's. Ignore it...they don't know what they are talking about and you will induce one of the problems I spoke about earlier. Like I said, most ECU's will adapt and you live with it...or, just recirculate...

A lot of info on this kind of stuff in the Lube Section ;) (search is a wonderful thing) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

Brad - it's the VTV that controls the return to TB closed...pinch the vac line after running at 2500 RPM and release to idle. It should high idle for 1 sec, then go normal after you open the vac line. You could try a new VTV...or use a shorter, smaller ID vac line between the dashpot and...

No vac leaks...well, that's good and elminates one cause. Even for your altitude, your vac is a bit low. That's what I would do ;)