33-40 psi vac off
23-30 psi vac on
Both have to be in range at idle.
Tanner - if you've installed a Walbro, you either need to drill the J tube out or eliminate it.
10sec - This is the Tech Section...if you are not 100% sure, do not post.
It can cause the car to stall when you come off the gas at low speed. Most ECU's seem to adapt...that is if everything else with the EFI/air induction is running correctly. I've had mine vented to the atmosphere and it only happens rarely. Usually going up an incline, under load and lifting...
Kenny - Take a look at this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_gauge_readings.aspx
Sure your timing is correct? Did you check TDC vs the damper index?
And, your not...something that will likely never happen.
So far, Will made a statement based on ignorance and he's getting slapped around for it. No inappropriate behavior though.
It is time for the thread to get back on track.
This may help:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx
USDM TB's have two ports...one for the canister, one for the EGR. The two systems are not interconnected.
Meh...what's 1 or 2 teeth ;)
Max travel on the CPS...low vac...running like crap = jumped timing.
Assuming the rest of the tensioner is good, all you need is the spring (a new one). Remember what I told you about torque on that. After 500 miles or so after replacement, you *should always*...
John - Incorrect...the pressure comes from fuel evap. Look at this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=6
Intake vac is one way from the canister to the intake manifold. If vac occurs in the tank, there is a check valve in the stock cap that allows air in...
They need to come on just prior to when the T-stat opens. Hence the suggestion for an 75-80 deg C switch in the water neck before the T-stat. ;)
The factory aux fans are there to assist when the A/C is running and the thermal load to the radiator increases.
Viper - If you go the CB...
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