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You talking about the check valve? Next to last pic from the bottom: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=107 There needs to be a clear air path from the accordion hose, to the ISCV, to the intake manifold. It is important....that is, if you want a good, stable...

Been around for a while sport ;) It is a good basic reference though. BTW - the 7M-GTE uses an AFM, not a MAF.

Is the wastegate bracket shimmed?

^^^ That's not a timing problem, it's a CPS wiring problem...common on old, brittle wiring/connectors. Suggest you pull codes and set the timing according to the TSRM (assuming there are no engine codes).

Here (and the following 5 pages): http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=44 Here (and the following page): http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 If you are talking about the STOP fuse in J/B #1 (left kick panel), I highly...

Yep: http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=975-12&Category_Code=SPRNGSI You will need 2 sets...it's actually inner springs for a dual spring set-up on a BBC iirc.

No, it does not have to be started. Make very sure you jump the correct terminals...the link I posted is a no-brainer. If all else fails, take JJ's advice ;) Your spoon feed session is rapidly coming to an end.

He meant "CEL"...Check Engine Light. Did you look at the power distribution fuses I pointed out in Post #13? Did you ever try to pull engine codes? Not much point in guessing until you do.

I've stopped using it. It's electrical conductivity and nasty habit of abrading everything it rests against makes it not worthwhile IMO.

A set of long handled cable cutters works well too. Just use filament tape at the cut.

Reminds me of something you would see in women's lingerie...only a hell of a lot less appealing ;)

Sure you got basic timing set up correctly? (i.e. crank at "zero" index, both cam gears index indexed with the rear cover mark, CPS installed correctly). The #1 piston must be at TDC with all of the above.

"Rod Knock"

That is exactly how it's "suppose" to be done...bake, bead blast, solvent wash, apply ceramic, bake. You always want the inside of the pipe and mating flanges coated. Brad quoted me correctly...not coating the inside can cause the metal to crack.

There's an entire lube section on SM ;) Read the threads before you post though...most questions have been answered. I like Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (aka German Castrol). You want to run 1 quart over the full mark on the dipstick.

He is ;)

You might want to pull those injectors and have them tested. I'd hate to see you torch a piston or two.

It's not working for you...it's a coincidence. All that's required is to turn the key. ;) On an EFI engine during start, the ECU selects a basic injector duration based on coolant temp and intake air temp. On engines like the 7M, a cold start injector is also used to increase fuel at low...

Doesn't help on an EFI motor period ;)

Wrong section to ask this...thread moved.