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This subject has been beat to death. The short answer: You do not want to remove the EGR...your friends have a problem and don't even know it. Frankly, it's a stupid thing to do. If you want to know more, use the search feature...for example...

I like the KISS principle ;) In that train of thought...take a look at this page and the following one: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 I'd be looking at fuses that supply power to the TCCS, ignition, and fuel injectors. Got codes...

Hacki Sack - Suggest you pull ECU codes.

If you had any clue what you are talking about here, you would know the 7M tech specs say the idle bypass screw is set fully seated from the factory...the ISCV supplies the air to control idle. On the R22E (I have one) the screw is used to control idle...the EFI on that motor is way different...

The turbo oil feed is off the same channel as the bearing, squirters, etc...it is filtered. However, a BB turbo is very intolerant of particles in the oil. It is a very good idea to run an in-line filter. Unless the filter goes into bypass ;)

Just to clarify something: You do not want to use any type of sealant on AN fitting threads...the AZ Performance fittings are a single piece flange/AN fitting. The flange side will require a gasket. On other NPT/metric fluid fittings is ok to use a sealant. Copper crush washers will not work...

Ok...explain the physics to me. Considering 3 sets of rings on a piston exert metal-to-metal contact with the cylinder wall. And, the cylinder is oiled via spray from the rods and from the oiling ring (bottom ring) on the piston. How is it possible there are "deposits" on the cylinder...

I told you (a couple times now)...a synthetic will not produce a "blue cloud" out your exhaust. Go ahead and use it...you're not going to listen to me anyway ;)

Uber cool IMO :D

Great pics! Glad you found it ;)

Seems like it sometimes! ;) Sure looks like your rings are seated just fine...take a good hard look at the turbo.

Regardless, this is still a swap...you are just building up a GE motor to make it turbo. The swap threads should provide a wealth of info. How about posting in complete sentences, with capitals, punctuation, and drop the text message BS abbreviations....a person may actually read what you...

Because you're going to need it...:3d_frown:

Lol!

Zerex G-05...Gold bottle here in the states. Valvoline makes it.

G05 of course! Especially in an all aluminum engine. GM recommends DexCool...make sure you keep the coolant system full and at the spec precentage if you use it.

Same for G05 ;) The color doesn't mean anything, but the chemistry sure does. Coolants are not all the same.

To add, tilting the engine forward may have put liquid oil in contact with the seal vs the normal windage vapor...so, your Dad has the right idea. Crankcase pressure could have forced some past the seal per the info posted. I like to use a seal shellac (like Indian head) on the outside edge...

To add, you really need to learn how a Karmen Vortex AFM works and how the TCCS uses the input before "getting creative" ;) Hint: a 4" intake pipe is not going to do squat to help delay fuel cut.

LOL...it is an excellent oil. If I ever took $$$ from Castrol, then I'd no longer be able to be unbiased...make no mistake, if I ever come across an oil that is better for $$$ spent, I'll change in a heartbeat. JetJock is the guy who got me running GC...he's been running it in his Supra for...