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To heck with a Tazer/zip ties...a .45 is far more effective and there's only one story to tell.

Oh man...I don't know who told you that was a good idea, but it's not. Put your PCV system back to stock. I don't know if that will help, but you do not want to run it that way...the PCV needs to be under vacuum. Your dipstick popping out indicates the crankcase is under excessive...

You have the valve cover ports capped off? Ever noticed your oil dipstick popped out? JDM - it's the oil consumption that's the give away here...it's excessive. A compression test on a new engine is always a good idea after 2-3K miles.

Is your PCV stock? Any smoke out the exhaust? If it is the rings, you should be good with a light hone then...check piston to wall one more time just to be safe. JE rings would be a excellent choice ;)

There's a CPS there? :icon_wink

Do a compression check. What kind of pistons? If you replace the rings, the cylinder bores will need to be lightly honed (assuming no damage). I would check piston to wall clearance as well.

When the OP is this callous...not really. I know exactly how Mike feels.

It's not called the world-wide web for nothing. Mike - "self absorbed" is an understatement...narcissistic is the term I would use. To the highest degree. CJ - if this makes you feel like total crap because it points out you have little feeling or regard for the plight of others: I say...

Suggest you read the previous posts.

I'm not...Red Line 75W-90 here. In a rebuilt TRD LSD :D

Link to TB in question on eBay?

The amount of heat clutch fluid is exposed to is the key. In the article he was talking about a GM application where the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing, exposed to relatively high heat. And, he was also talking about running the motor hard at the track. Both of these are going to...

Ummm...Red Line 75W-90 already has friction modifier in it. That is unless you're talking about the 75W-90NS. The LSD holds 1.4 quarts, so you'll need 2. Fill till it runs out of the fill hole...you will need a pump to fill. Get Ford 75W-90 and the friction modifier at the dealer...for a...

I've wondered why Toyota did it this way...mechanical cut-off of vac at idle via the port. It would seem easier to use the ECU to activate the VSV when IDL is on.

1) Iridiums do not provide "extra spark". 2) The ARP torque spec for studs is 80 ft/lbs using moly...use the TSRM torque pattern. I really wish people would stop posting "opinion" torque spec's. 3) Break-in additive? The RL additive contains ZDDP...useful for flat tappet cam motors. RP...

Kenny - Mine follows the harness to the driver's side, then through the firewall. You can run the wire through where the main harness goes through the firewall as well...it will just be a bit more difficult running the wire across inside the dash. Either way works.

I HATE text messaging abbreviations...it's BS on a forum when typing from a keyboard. ENGLISH...in coherent sentences please! Keep doing it and I'll lock the thread.

At least a foot down from the turbo flange, away from the exhaust flame front. Too close and the sensor can be damaged from excessive heat.

Don't touch the air bypass set screw on the TB...it is fully closed from the factory. Messing with it will only cause more problems.

Sigh :3d_frown: Didn't you read my previous post? (post #9) Forget where the cam lobes point...the dowel trick will tell you when the piston is at TDC...at the same time the 2 cam gear marks should point at the 2 index marks on the back plate (gear on center pin on cams) and the crank...