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Really? A code 11 masks all other codes, so how do you know?

And the rear suspension is the same configuration ;)

Mo - If anything, you want to go a bit smaller diameter. The mounting bracket geometry will be a factor as well.

A cracked head will produce symptoms like a BHG. The difference is exhaust gas gets into the coolant channels through the crack vs the gap/breach in the HG. You can confirm with a NAPA block tester. Might want to post up the details on the "head job"...hardware, type HG, machine work...

Yes it would. Do a compression and leak down test. What makes you think it's cracked? Several things could cause loss of power. Codes? Might want to check valve timing to make sure the belt has not jumped a tooth.

iirc, the connectors are different.

Piggyback = add on computer (like the MAFT Pro, SAFC, etc) to modify signals to the stock ECU. Allows some measure of control, but you will always be fighting the stock ECU "learned value" feature. Standalone = TCCS replacement with an AEM, Motec, stinger, etc. Fully programmable with a...

Speed cut is programmed in the JDM TCCS at 180 km/hr irrc, but not in the USDM version. NFI about the Canadian version.

See where the copper is deformed on the exhaust side cylinder water jacket holes? (looks like 4-6 - hard to tell in the pics) Thats where...this one isn't bad...seen much worse.

Sounds like speed cut.

Zum - That is priceless! Fonz - it's simple, the cams rotate 1/2 turn for every rotation of the crank. The timing gun is synchronized with the crank. Whiteout on the cams tells you nothing...it's useless...timing is set at the crank. Why would you want to check something that provides...

:runaway:

ARP studs are M12x1.25 threads for the block side. Studs should not be torqued into the block, finger tight only. The torque spec for the nut is 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube.

I wouldn't...way too big. Here's what I use: Magnefine Filter (2nd from the top) You want to install it in the return line near the reservoir, after you do a full system fluid replacement.

I didn't attack anyone or anything...other than inaccurate info: (I hate quoting myself) I am a moderator in this section...If you are not 100% sure of what you post, do not post. I saw the smiley and the lame attempt to justify your position with a smoke screen based on military...

You might want to take a look at some of the threads on the emanage...it's not very user friendly iirc. For any speed density set-up you will need a MAP (3 Bar), a temp sensor, and harnesses for each...the GM versions are commonly used. The AVC-R is a better boost controller.

You would be able to get a MAFT Pro and what's needed for speed density in the $500-600 range. And, all that's needed for boost control is a solenoid air valve on top of what's needed for speed density.

Nice try...I'm in the USAFR. F-16 pilot to be exact that moved up the food chain just a bit. You picked the wrong guy to pull the military card on. There are numerous times that has been corrected in this and other sections of SM...you've just chose to ignore it. Toyota makes a very exact...

Hella lights are good, but those are 3/8" too big according to what you posted for your hole dimension. ;) Plus, it looks like the mounting bracket will require a bumper customize.

More appropriate for the General section. Thread moved and re-opened. Suggest you use the site search feature before you post.