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Seriously just STFU and go back to SF with your bullshit.... :nono: HighLex: Check the valve clearences.

I always have the rear section made into a single piece. stock the shaft is actually a 3 piece, my way makes it into a proper 2 piece. It's a very easy inspection just jack the car up and sight along the shaft from Uni to Uni if it's slipped the rear one will be rotated out of line from...

^ LOL'd Ken! As I said all the best people are Leo's ;) Don't feel bade dude my family usually remember a week late! Thanks Shawn! (International date line means 2 days of BD Greets :runaway: )

Thanks K :)

The rear section of the shaft is actually a shaft in a tube that's bonded together, over the years the bond fails and the inner rotates inside the outer and puts the #3 Uni out of line with #1 and #2 and this causes the symptoms you describe not the Centre bearing.

Thanks T! It's funny I'm still waiting to "grow up" I'm guessing I missed that boat! ;)

Long probe fits beside a lobe

I use a flat steel plate drilled so it bolts to the cam cover bolt holes and a Magnetic base with a long probe on the indicator. Sorry no pics

Leo's are the best people ;) LOL'd @ "wet farts" you mean they're NOT meant to be lumpy?? :aigo: ohhhh fuck I'm doomed then ;)

I used Stone Guard on my old 240z it's much like bed liner it worked really well.

Serena: LOL I can get stuff from the US in 2 days ;) Mike: Thanks Boss where's my gold rolex? :D Fred: Thanks many would disagree, but I do try to help as much as possible and I'm not a complete asshole.

Would need to be spotlessly clean to work, be better to find an oversize plug or repair kit.

Made me smile a lot! :D thanks again everyone!

Unscrew the rear lines at the ABS open both rear bleeders and use a piece of hose and blow the lines out with a compressor, then if nothing comes out carefully inspect the rear line to see if it's been squashed flat (first place to look is down by the rear subframe mount)

Won't fit on a 7M :D

I have close to 30k just in engine management........

Damn good idea! Might I suggest a couple of 1" holes one either side of the diff cutout to allow for a rosette weld?

Check the unijoint phasing along all 3 joints, I'm guessing the rear bonded tube is failing and has slipped out of phase.

I had the 2 top cranks in the same engine within 2 weeks with the cranks being the only change and it's noticable.

The Pauter's should have been returned as soon as Rich found the big ends were missized :( Mr Pauter was very helpful when I contacted him for replacement bolts during one of my rebuilds and very concerned about quality.