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"Pressure" is going to be the same both sides of the t-stat wether it's open or not..... See the bypass lines?

hmmmm if it's an honest dyno you might be pushing it as the 4.3 diff isn't going to load it hard on the ramp up.

And the Hitensile steel used in the turret/pillars of modern cars isn't happy about being overheated.

This thread highlights a good point, NOT everyone knows everything about cars/engines. In my opinion it's always better to ask and get the correct info than be embarrassed that you don't know, this way you have a much better chance of success, I personally think people that don't ask forge...

LOL here :) you have new knowledge!

Pull it outwards ;)

Usually drop the pistons into Hot water during assembly here :) They "should" be damn close to 1:1 on the pins so if you handle the pins too much they warm up and expand enough to be a PITA to fit up. A bit odd in your case with a used engine having a tight fit in the pistons though, maybe...

Yep not a huge rattle but enough at that cylinder pressure to lift the head and scour the Viton and leak combustion pressure into the cooling system.

Have you verified that the Damper is correct for TDC? The outer ring can and does slip giving an incorrect TDC, pull #1 plug use a chopstick and sit it on the piston. Turn the crank and watch the Chopstick, it will stop before heading back down, at this point check the damper against the...

The interference fit is in the rod ;)

I actually had the dyno session when it happened posted for a year or so :p Nothing dramatic, just 30psi on pump bit of a rattle backed out of it and it blew some coolant out of the recovery tank.

Why not just leave it alone and install the aftermarket sender in another port on the block? (ALL in Orange will work)

A Stopper can be blown at sub 500rwhp levels if something goes wrong ;)

Should be full floating like the originals.

Cast replacements, keep em out of detonation and they're fine.

It's a boat we're all paddling Rob! (but in true SM fashion the guys on the left are going forwards the guys on the right backwards) <remembers> ;) Finally used the 340 manual thanks Steve it made life MUCH easier!

No need for 2 threads on the same subject....

Still don't buy the whole "special Moly lube" , I use Castrol LMM grease (Moly Grease) it's a few $ for a lifetime supply and works well as an assembly lube as well. Joe: I'd change #1 in your list to "Chase the threads using a chaser" as they tend to only clean the existing threads and don't...

Ditto on having the rails pulled straight it'll be money well spent. Mine had been hit in the front and repaired before I got it and my alignment guy said it was actually better than stock the first time we had it on the rack. Halfass the repair and it'll always be a pig and not worth...

I'll wait ;)