Up to you I already outlined my methods.
If you think everything is right and want to try a hard breakin by all means go for it but as I posted most Mk3's aren't "ready" from the first start and you run a risk.
ie: Coolant leak and you end up annealing the head, Oil leak and you end up...
Hang on let me get this straight.....
Airhead thinks she's going to hit him so nails it and hits a kerb and that's her fault? :nono:
(never mind she made 0 contact with his car or any others on the scene)
Not everything is a lawsuit, sometimes you just have to suck it up and deal with...
Clarification: I said most aren't in any fit condition to do a hard breakin from first start ;)
Most often there's been a bunch of changes made during the rebuild and there are usually teething problems/issues that need to be corrected that if ran hard can flush ALL of your work and $$$ down...
You only say that because most Carbs are 85>90% right straight out of the box (think good base tune)
Ask anyone that's set up a DCOE Weber from scratch how much they enjoyed it ;)
I find EFI much easier having worked on both, even starting from a 0 base map I can have a car up and driving...
I wouldn't be at all concerned about the runner length.
HATE working anywhere near my headers and exhaust now :(
I've sprayed 9 cans of Silicone paint onto mine to reduce the itchies....
In theory yes but why would you leave that pileOcrap bolted to the engine?
find a wrecker that has a 7M cressida and go unbolt the NA stud it's much simpler/cleaner.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.