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Did the noise change at all?

Yeah 3in1 should be ok Kai!

No it's not just to see if the injector is firing....... :nono: I ask questions for a reason, once you've done it post the results. (it's called diagnosing an issue instead of playing "guess that noise" may as well guess it's a banana...)

Try pulling an injector clip then replacing it one at a time and see if it changes.

Probably would have screwed your back anyway lifting/throwing it ;) (would have made you easy pickings for "Bubba" and the boys when you got locked up!!)

Well there ya go ;) (and you didn't even have to throw the head through his window)

Depends how badly it's marked, 1500>2000 to finish and yes that's the stuff but any light oil will do the trick it's just to help wash out the paper as it works.

WetNdry sandpaper cut into precise strips, Lube with CRC-5-56 then wrap the crank pin with the wetNdry then wrap that with a long boot lace a couple of time, grab each end of the lace and pull back and forwards, this will rotate the sandpaper and polish the pin.

4) I sleeve the Rod studs with fuel hose so they can't nick the crank but yep all looks good Kai!

fuckoff :p Fixed it with 25K of engine management!

It is, in the "chart" it will list an Xxx/Y table one side being the Pin size the other being the Tunnel size, as long as it's Toyota spec the Tunnels will not have changed but the pins may have so you measure the pins find the correct shell from the chart order and install and you're golden...

Can't see a reason it won't work as long as the engine hasn't been machined after Toyota. I'd carefully measure the crankpins as it'd be a good opportunity to close the clearences up if there's wear.

Old lady in a late model Corolla........ :nono: 500rwhp 7M, seriously traction limited.. :( (true story)

I wouldn't use it.... To properly weld/repair a head costs about the same as a brand new bare head from Toyota, I'd ignore the nutters saying to take some sort of idiotic revenge on the shop owner, explain to him it's a performance build and with the 7M's history of head issues a welded head...

Much the same experience when I went T04z here from the GT35R.

Bingo we have a WINNER! It's been Welded (badly) to repair the errosion around the water channels....

Read from here then go to the Timing section.

Follow the instructions in the TRSM to the letter and keep in mind the Tq setting is 14ft/lbs. Yes there is a seal on each Cam and yes that would explain the leak...

So they're free?

It's just hiding from all the UglyAss wheels out there ;)