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I always shoot for the Tube to be 3/8th off the floor of the pan.

The Nissan Track rotors are a close enough match as you need to make new Hub rings even if you use the Mk4 Rotors, drama with the Mk4's is you need to turn down the Mk3 Hub 5mm so this means no ABS.

Yeah NOW ya post it :p

Sell ya mine at a very reasonable price considering what it cost me to build ;) Yeah in Members Rides there's a bunch of threads/pics.

Ran 3:1's with my Turbo LSx swap :)

The 7M is a bit of a freak being long stroke smallish bore, Pauter's rods are all made off their own design but it's a bit of a generic thing, the profile does have lots of advantages though so it's worth the time to clearence the block and use them. <fingers crossed>

What are the bearing clearences on that Rod? Don't think Vid is going to help, would be good if someone else has an engine on a stand that can check that particular rod for clearence to the block.

Trust me on this I've used Pauters in 4 blocks and they all needed to be relieved, the Rods come with a Tech sheet explaining where/how much. As I said though never seen a H Beam rod come even close, would be good if one of the Stroker guys could jump in.

Don't think it would make any difference they're symetrical Andy.

Thought one of the stock Sensors turns the Aux fans on around that temp for the AC? (If so you could use that to trigger a relay)

It will fuck with the balance in a couple of bad ways.... I'd prefer to grind the block if needs be but there has to be a reason it's hitting in the first place and that needs to be addressed. As I said never seen this and if it's that close stock how do the Stroker guys swing a crank at all?

LMAO same as mine (was my Mothers), it's stamped but it had paint in the stampings so it was easier to see, a couple of years in the Hot Tank fixed that :(

Bolts in backwards on that rod? (from memory there's a fat half and a thin half on the head of the bolt)

New one for me! Non stock Rod bolts? (When using Pauter Rods you have to grind notches in the block but never seen it on H beam rods)

All the markings came off mine from years of being used in non candy/automotive applications, last time I used my Digi IR Gun :)

Just go pull the Dip stick it should show up, that or drain it into a clean/clear container without starting it if there's coolant in there it'll have seperated. If I suspect an engine is BHG I won't run it again till I can confirm it.

Mk4 Calipers are heavy as Lead (One Half is Cast Iron), I wouldn't use them if there were any other option available, I used Mk4 Rotors F/R with AP 4 Piston calipers on my own brackets.

Could just be condensation, bit radical pulling the head if you're not sure about it ;) (should show on the Dipstick if it's milkshaked)

Well you know water boils roughly at 210>212f depending on altitude so if it's NOT opening by then it's faulty ;)

Is there coolant in the Oil?