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some damn fine clothes, a 20 piece screwdriver set, a B&M supercooler oil cooler, 180* B&M thermostat, and an oil filter relocation kit, a real nice jacket, a large and small flashlight that uses no batterys, it just shakes and builds energy, real badass, some pringles potato chips, a yoohoo...

Ok everyone, i know lots of you got parts for your supras for christmas! i KNOW it! we have an awesome setup here on supramania, used for reviewing these parts. this takes all the guesswork out of what others think they should or shouldnt buy, as well as what shops are good and what others...

to check the fuel pump, jumper +B and FP in the diagnostic block (dont hold onto the jumper, it'll get a little warm, or hot, haha) when you place the jumper in, the fuel pump will run. open the gas tank, and listen to it. it should make a "whirring" sound. listen to it carefully, to see if...

first off, use the link in my sig below to check your error codes. it explains how and whatnot. there's too many things it could be with the description you gave. was the "tapping sound" more of a tap tap tap tap, or a knock knock knock knock. also, did you hear which area of the engine it...

no problem, man. :) glad to hear you've got it mostly sorted out. :) -shaeff

that's just odd. are you POSITIVE you didnt bump the sensor? what vacuum line did you use for the AFPR? it's very possible that you knocked off the vacuum line going to the boost pressure sensor... -shaeff

most people upgrade to the single because you cannot make "big" power off of them. you're capable of flowing WAY more air with one large turbo, than you are with the two small stockers. -shaeff

yeah, battery cables is the first and easiest thing to check. :) way easier than trying to hit the solenoid! haha (used to have to do that on my old chevy about once a week. (but it was way easy) -shaeff

information taken from 7mpower.com: -shaeff

not quite. the factory Fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the return side of the rail (read: front of the motor). the J tube is a "safety" feature, which would allow you to limp home if your fuel pressure regulator died. we drill it out/remove it when we upgrade pumps because the...

ct's run out of breath at the upper rpm range. it's a common problem. with a few shims on the wastegate, and my MBC set to 15psi, i hold 15psi right to redline in 3-5th gears. -shaeff

i MIGHT believe 30hp at the crank, but taking into consideration about a 15% drivetrain loss, (through a 5 speed, more through an automatic) that means that the HKS filter alone added roughly 60hp at the crank. (you said you dyno'd at 232rwhp afterward) that's completely insane, and unless boost...

yes, those are some valid points. the reason i stated that one of the outputs on the relay wasnt used, is because most people only use one fuel pump. (well, most commonly, anyway) props to your setup. :) -shaeff

oh, my mistake, i'm talking about removing the entire heater valve assembly, along with the VSV. good catch, isnms! i dont have any of that crap on my car. no VSV, and no heater valve. -shaeff

follow the vacuum line to it's source (on the throttlebody, i believe) and cap it off there. yes, you'll still be able to adjust your heat temperature like normal. jester, you're welcome:) -shaeff

i'm here. -shaeff

yes. actually a 90* piece of pipe, but you got the idea. -shaeff

www.4cefed.com (dr. jonez's site) has a writeup on it. -shaeff

550's are good insurance. the stock 440's MUST be AT LEAST cleaned (flow tested, too) in order to push 400hp. my question to you is: why risk burning up your motor for a set of $350 injectors from RC engineering? the 440's wont support 500hp. they'll be far past their duty cycle to be running...

just get a rubber hose and bypass the entire setup if you'd like. if you remove the j tube from the block, then there's a gaping hole in your block. :( (back from when the origional casting used a mechanical fuel pump, i believe) -shaeff