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Bit of a hint "Macro button" on a real camera :D

I ran the Mocal T Stat last time and it's a good unit, the Earls billet one more than likely uses the same internals but being billet is going to be stronger and replaceable fittings are a nice touch. I used the Permacool stuff early on and while it works as you found it's cheal cast junk and...

And this has gone just far enough off topic that's it's entered the Bull Shit Zone so it's done..

That'd be "list price" if you found a dealer that actually had stock they'd probably take any offer just to be rid of it! My Parts guy actually gave me a few Mk3 parts for nothing as they were going into the bin otherwise ;)

I said "pic" not a cave painting ;)

Welcome to SM Erik! You "might" be able to get it a little lower if you dig a hole :D

pic?

You always set max boost in 4th/5th, a lot of times the combination won't allow for full boost in lower gears due to not enough load on the turbo, I know the AVCR did gear sensing so you could tune each gear/boost ditto on the MoTeC, not sure with the TS though.

Got some links to the parts you're looking at? What do you mean "reuse" the hose?

Much less chance of a one piece steel flywheel failing than either a lightened Cast iron or 2 piece Aluminium one....

Holes and slots in brake rotors are designed to allow gas to escape, not an issue in a clutch so only a gimmick, still dirt cheap if it's CroMo.

The holes and slots are a bit of a gimmick but if it's actually CroMo it's damn cheap for a 13lbs steel flywheel!

Bin the cast junk and replace it with a Mocal or another billet T Stat, you've put so much time effort and expense into this project why risk it?

What happens is You tell it 20 psi, the boost controller opens at your gate pressure so snaps it open due to the large ID hose, the controller then tries to maintain 20 psi but as I said earlier it has to have an error to chase (it's a "difference engine" meaning if xx is different to yy do zz...

Damn that's FUGLY (I'm guessing "I Bought" would still hit it though.....) Try a 2mm/80 thou and see how it goes. Might have to go up/down to hit the sweet spot but you should be able to get it to hold +- .5 psi when set right. Only time I'd expect you to have issues would be trying to...

Sorry gave you a bum steer on that coupler, it's just for connecting the actual gauge part of the controller, you'll need another restrictor in the line to port #3. I have to ask WTF is that Gargoyle in your avatar??? (came damn close to infracting you for that thing ;) )

That's the restrictor! Now you have to change the settings, do you have any sort of fuel or overboost cut? I usually put mine in the line close to the Solenoid. I had one monumental 30+psi spike when I first played with the AVCR lucky for me the engine was built to run that hard.... :nono:

Nah the restriction slows everything, The settings you have will be the normal P I and D just named differently, pid setting can be a bit of a black art and the restrictor just makes it easier as it dampens the swings, ALL pid devices need an overshoot/error so they work and they are self...

I make my own on the lathe, problem with a bead is it might turn in the hose and cause issues, depending on the hose size you use a Holly carb jet may do it. The idea behind all this is to slow the response of the WG so the controller doesn't overshoot trying to correct, in the AVCR you could...