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as jdub mentioned already, you don't just "mess" with the TPS. since he's covered it already, i won't go there. as for the code 32, chances are that your AFM is dead. check the connection, clear the codes, drive it around a bit, then check the codes again. if it pops back up, look for new AFM...

if the temp isn't high, check the coolant resivour. -shaeff

heh, well then, i'll keep my comment to myself. ;) -shaeff

MDC is correct. -shaeff

i just took off the accordian hose and reached in and grabbed that sucker. it was easy. now that i relocated my filter to near the passenger tow hook, it's even EASIER. :) -shaeff

no, you'd need the wiring harness and ECU (turbo) that matches the yearspan of your CHASSIS. (87-88 or 89-92) you don't need any sensors if you don't mind splicing on a few different connectors. the "special thing" about the JDM motors is that they SUPPOSEDLY have between 30-40k miles on them...

heh, everyone beat me to it. if you have a severe concussion, would you just put a bandaid on it? hell no! you'd go to the doctor and get it checked out. well, YOU be the doctor, and get your car a nice new radiator! -shaeff

yes, what bert said^ works great. holding it with your knees is super easy. just make sure there's less than 5gal of gas in there. when it sloshes around it's tough to hold on to. -shaeff

keep in mind that it only takes one good overboost to destroy your moter. i want to see pics of this thing, or an MS paint drawing. -shaeff

code 52 does NOT indicate knock. it indicates that the signal from the knock sensor(s) TO the ECU is disrupted. -bad wiring -bad connection at KS(s) -bad connection at ECU -lots of electrical interferance (not likely) -bad KS to test the knock sensors, put a multimeter to them, and...

it's ok. ;) it happens! just keep everything you learn in mind before you post, that's all. apology accepted. :) you need to swap the oil pressure sending unit because the JDM one measures differently than the USDM one. (metric v.s. standard) the EGR is needed to make your car legal for...

if it only has one hole, junk it. get one from dr. jonez. the pressure line from the turbo nipple to the wastegate actuator MUST be complete (albeit, with an MBC in the middle) if either side (turbo nipple, or wastegate nipple) is disconnected, you'll overboost your motor in short order...

crappy pics in this post: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...m+throttlebody (ran a search for: jdm throttlebody) -shaeff

heh, no, i'm totally not one of those guys, but when someone rolls up to me in an N/A, and tells me the aforementioned in a cocky manner, pretending that their N/A with an intake and exhaust will keep up with my 289rwhp/ 295rwtq turbo, it gets to the point where i need to speak up. it was...

i've had mine capped and looped for well over a year, and have no issues with it. -shaeff

look at the other JDM titled thread. ;) -shaeff

bert, if it makes any difference to you, you could bypass all that very easily by going to the local autoparts store, getting some small water tubing, and looping the line from the small steel hardline that comes from the wrap-around water pipe, and running it straight to the nipple on the lower...

crappy pics in this post: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1111&highlight=jdm+throttlebody (ran a search for: jdm throttlebody) -shaeff

heh, last time i met an mk3 owner, it was a dude in an N/A, and he said the previous owner put a full exhaust and intake on, and he had 250rwhp because of those mods. i told him in a very nice way, that there was no way in hell that was true. ;) i never saw him again. :( -shaeff

i see something written on them! just tell them what it says. :) it's worth a shot! -shaeff