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i've got mine removed. everything from the compressor, lines, condensor, drier, connectors, and even the evaporator from behind the dash. ;) i plugged the hole in the firewall using fiberglass. here's a note for those of you who do this: be careful! have a professional drain the system for...

yep, no problems here with that. i'm also using the JDM throttlebody. it's not an issue if you don't mind ditching the cruise control. (which i hate CC anyway, so did) heh, i hate the linkage setup on the USDM throttlebody. it gets old and sloppy. i'm happily using the JDM TB. :) -shaeff

call RC engineering- 1-310-320-2277 give them the numbers on the side/code, whatever, and they should be able to tell you what they are. -shaeff

and for shits and giggles, check the 7.5A IGN fuse in the driver's side fuse box behind the kick panel. :) -shaeff

make sure the oiling system is up to par. if you get a good oiling system going, i'm sure it could be done with no ill-effects. when i had my oil pan off, i use a prybar to lower the oil pickup deeper into the pan, and i run 1 qt over at all times. i'm running an oil filter re-location kit to...

heh, didn't think y'all would find it that funny! :) thanks. :) -shaeff

heh, this is actually the THIRD time it has been reposted. :( funny none-the-less. -shaeff

heh, this is a very bad way to start a post. read the link that mkiiiman089 posted. :) and the JDM motor is NOT any better than the USDM counterpart. they're virtually identical. i don't know where you people come up with this stuff?! this is how your post should read: take care...

short answer: change the darn fuel pump. it's only $99 shipped from ebay, and is damn good insurance that your stocker doesn't die on you. -shaeff

i just pulled my J-tube off and used a chisel to knock it off the actual plate. then i ground it down, and painted it black. with removing the j-tube, get some gas line from your local autoparts store, and run it from the return side of the fuel pressure regulator to the hardline under the...

if my car was nice looking, i'd apply, as i'll have that power level firmly within my fists this summer. too bad my car looks like poo. -shaeff

long answer- read this: http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/lexus/lexus1.htm if you still don't understand, read it again, and if you still have questions, i'll be happy to answer them. :) after you've read that, i'll tell you the short answer. :) -shaeff

fuel should ALWAYS come before turbo upgrades if you ask me. i was running 6psi (stock) on my turbo after i did my swap. i didn't even think about increasing the boost until i got a walbro fuel pump, replaced the softline near the tank, replaced the filter, blew out the line under the car to...

check out this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5601 -shaeff

^ yes, especially since i just put down 289rwhp and 295rwtq at 10 (creeping to 15psi) on a stock dying turbo. (mild shaft play and chipped impeller blades) :) -shaeff

topher e, is your cold start injector time switch plugged in? that's what the connector you're holding looks like to me. i'll look on my car if i have time tomorrow. thanks for the kind words, duane. :) -shaeff

i know dr. jonez was running a HUD for some time, maybe it was him? i'm not sure as of when he bought it, though. -shaeff

if the AFM wire wasn't done correctly, yes. -shaeff

heh, yeah i saw that. the same thing happened on my old N/A motor. -shaeff

what do you need it for? to hook up the belts? start with the crank pulley. the one closest to the timing cover is for the power steering pump. next one (middle on the crank pulley) is for the alternator last one out, (closest to the fan) is for the A/C compressor. -shaeff