In the shop right now we have two mk3 1jz swaps, the 2jz mk3 back for a fuel pump upgrade and sway bars, and a 7m-gte mk3 build using a brand new short block and a bunch of upgrades.
I say this because I think I am qualified to talk about the differences of each engine without bias and...
I built one of each so I don't have to choose which is better, just which one I feel like driving that day! :naughty:
Calling a 1jz "half ass" is just insulting and flat out wrong, btw.
Sorry about the problems, but I'm thinking some tough love is needed :biglaugh:
Neither bolts or studs should be torqued to 90 ft/lbs. Did you read the instructions that came with the ARP studs? 80 ft/lbs with moly lube. The 25ra on the head is probably ok, it's the uneven block that was...
They are shielded, but the shielding stops about 4" before the connector on the end. The shield is grounded near the ecu. The knock sensor is basically a microphone. The ecu input is high gain, so the shielding is very important. It is not coax cable, it is shielded wire. Coax would probably...
They get $200 for them?!?
I have remanufactured 1jz p/s pumps for $120 with a $50 core charge. Send me your old one and you pay $120 plus $10 shipping. I actually take them to the remanufacturer myself which is why the price is so low, but the quality will be the same as theirs, and it comes...
I didn't on mine, and it has worked great for a year now. I think the bump stop should be kept the same since you do not gain any up travel with lowering springs, and if it bottoms out the bump stop is a good thing.
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