bubbles in coolent system..

[pimptrizkit]

well the title describes i all..

ive tried putting ramps at the end of my drive way, so my rear's are on the street, giving me more then normal slant..

ive tried putting a hose on the rad and poping a heater core line off and re clamping it while the motor is running..

im running a titain 1.4mm mhg, with arp's torqed to 90ftlbs (yet to retored in 1000 miles...) the head is freshly rebuilt and was machined to 25ra

 

[Kai]

Am i correct in thinking that you're getting the 'coffee percolator' noise behind the dashboard?

 

[jdub]

Did you use ARP bolts or studs? Did you happen to use a spray sealer on the new MHG?

 

[pimptrizkit]

no sealer, arp studs, and i have already replaced the heater core. with no percluation behind dash, it happens to be out my rad cap and my over flow bottle,

i just retorqed my head gasket today, im going to see if that helps if not, im going to park her..

 

[jdub]

Might want to pressure test your cooling system...could have a small leak somewhere allowing air into the system. Could be anywhere...rad cap, hose, etc.

 

[pimptrizkit]

well , i did forget to mention that,

that's what started me on the crazy bubble search..

first i had hose on the turbo side pusing water past the squeeze clamps, so i started raplcing them with worm clamps.

after replacing all on the turbo side, i am finding that im still getting bubbles.

so i figured it's of a couple places.. either my head lost some clampoign force in spots and let some combustion in past the hg, or i was suckign in air from other clamped sources under the tb..


so today i retorqed the hg, pulled the tb off and threw worm clamps on them aswell, now there's only 2 spots left under the intake plenum where i dont have spiral clamps..


i will be testing it more during the day to see if she gets warm. and if i see any bubbles..


where does your coolant temp gauge show on the tach?

when i shut mine off it points to around 500rpm, and while running it goes up to 1k, when it goes over the 1 or goes from slightly pointing down, to level or pointing up , my car is getting hot..

 

[johnathan1]

I am having a similar problem...except my car desn;t overheat or do anything weird...just that (thanks Kai) "coffee percolating" sound behind the dash... My temp guage never seems to move from around the 2/5 position...

 

[pimptrizkit]

john, that sounds like either air in your heater core or a leak in your heater core..

it's a fun job to do by your self :biglaugh:

 

[bigaaron]

Sorry about the problems, but I'm thinking some tough love is needed :biglaugh:

Neither bolts or studs should be torqued to 90 ft/lbs. Did you read the instructions that came with the ARP studs? 80 ft/lbs with moly lube. The 25ra on the head is probably ok, it's the uneven block that was probably not surfaced that is the real issue.

Just another example that the Cometic HG is not more "forgiving" then any other brand of mhg.

 

[pimptrizkit]

*titain* cough,

yeah, im hoping the bubbles stop , if not it's coming back apart..

(ive yet to really look today and i finished in the night.. soo wish me luck..


~edit, yah i read the arp stuff, when i had the moly lube i touched them up to 85 w/ felpro style gasket.

being that there was mostly motor oil on them, and i belive i have read it sevral times, to torqe to 100 ftbls when using just oil...

any ways. there were a few bolts that weren't as tight as the rest of them. so im thinking that could have been a small compression leak, that wasn't allowing it to burn water..

 

[jdub]

Sorry about the problems, but I'm thinking some tough love is needed :biglaugh:

Neither bolts or studs should be torqued to 90 ft/lbs. Did you read the instructions that came with the ARP studs? 80 ft/lbs with moly lube. The 25ra on the head is probably ok, it's the uneven block that was probably not surfaced that is the real issue.

Just another example that the Cometic HG is not more "forgiving" then any other brand of mhg.

Dead on...the ARP stud spec is 81 ft/lbs with moly and 105ft/lbs with motor oil. You don't want to over torque.

The only way a Cometic is more "forgiving" is in the RA spec itself...the Cometic still requires a 50 RA on both the head and block. It is a bit higher than other MHG's on the market require.