Normally RK will get worse around 2400>2500 then go away, you can try running it till it knocks then pull an injector clip and see if it stops, do one cylinder at a time replacing each clip then move onto the next.
If it's actually RK it should stop totally once the clip is off.
Don't stress too much it's a non interference engine so you can spin the Cams to where they need to be without the Valves hitting the pistons and trashing them.
The ones I'm using are 410LPH but more realistic Voltage/current/pressure sees about 305LPH for my application (58psi base), I always look at what I need for a fuel system then double it so I have plenty of overhead if something goes wrong.
I've used Kreeme a lot in the past, it's safe enough if you're careful!
Personally I'd replace the pump with a Mk4 style Denso (I run 2x of these) Ditto on the fuel filter, you've come this far why risk leaning it out?
Nothing will kill a Turbo Engine quicker than a subpar fuel system.. :(
That would be my first choice, there isn't much depth to the bolt head so if you use the easyout (spiral extractor) you may need to grind it's tip a bit so it can get a good bite.
The 7/16 Inhex can be hammered in using a piece of aluminium bar so you don't trash it, that way you can still...
No probs was just checking as the Craftsman kit you posted was for normal bolts and I wasn't sure if you still had the original bolts or maybe someone had swapped in some ARP Bolts (hex head)
One of the methods I posted in the other thread will work for sure, can't comment on the "kits" as...
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