Mine was getting to the end of its useby date before the accident that killed it, A LOT will depend on the use and power levels it's been run at.
Stock and well maintained almost indefinite, mine had been driven hard on many a twisty road and the shell was showing signs of fatigue (doors...
Drilling the head off works well just not if he's left the engine in the car :(
("might" be able to unbolt the trans mount and jack the trans till it hits the floor and that might allow enough tilt to slide the head up and off the dead bolt shaft not really sure on a LHD car though)
A big easy out, probably going to cost as much as an inhex, a 10mm allenkey cut 2" off the end and hit it into the bolt with a hammer and get someone to tack weld it to the bolt head, then use a 10mm socket to undo it.
Seriously though if you're broke the Mk3/7M combination is the wrong car...
Try an 7/16th imperial Inhex socket, you'll have to hammer it into the bolt and keep the extension vertical as you apply pressure on the ratchet handle.
"Jumping" WTF are you on about... :nono:
Soon as you get 1 full rotation of engagement and keep the Tap vertical in the hole it's not ever going to "jump" threads.. seriously I have NFI where you guys pull this total and utter bullshit from...
Small price to pay as I said ;)
Not to mention if it's heat checked it's NOT going to turn in the lathe without some chatter...
(I worked for a brake/clutch company for a few years as a kid so have a clue about all this)
Always had access to a Grinder so have never bothered, it's not an expensive process to get done correctly so why risk the PITA job of having to drop the Trans to do it right for a few $?
Blocked= leaves, bent fins, Air will take the path of least resistance, rad/ac get blocked/damaged the air looks for the easiest path which is now down and out under the car and around the sides due to the plastic/foam blockers missing, at low speeds the fans flow enough to draw the air through...
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