Try running it with the accessory belts off, try it with the Dipstick out, Auto or manual?
Try running it with the Oil Cap off and see if there is a change in knock volume.
I suggested pulling the injector leads as it will show up the same with no chance of zapping him..
If he pulls an injector lead and the knock stops that's the knocky cylinder, if it doesn't change the RPM or cause a miss it's either a dead injector or a dead coil/plug/lead so you investigate...
I owned the car 13 years, it had around the 300,000+ kms mark on it so about 186K miles, I'd say 6>7 years were around the 500rwhp and it used to sustain .95G cornering.
The Shell was very sad towards the end NOTHING opened/closed like it used to even with careful adjustments on a semi...
If it is "live" or if it's ground, what happens if you feed it power, where it actually goes, are the two wires doing something if connected together?
Might just have been some gumby wiring for a gauge or an amp...
20 year old car could be anything, would just be nice to know for sure.
No that's the things you first posted from Sears, the Spiral easyouts I posted usually go into a hole drilled into the broken bolt, you already have the hole (allen key socket) so just need a fat easyout, big bonus is normally you'd use say a 7mm>8mm easy out to do this job and they're not that...
Easyout will work but you have to grind it's tip most times so it will just go into the allen key hole then tap it in a little before turning, by design it will pull itself into the bolt.
That 7/16 should work, depending on hom mangled the bolt is you may need to file/grind a slight angle on...
Never tested that Cyrus, I don't have any 7M parts here or I'd check.
(easy enough test if some one has a head handy)
No 12mm is far too big, just order one from that Sears?
Or go to plan B the easyout.
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