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On stock Ecu 10.5:1 or richer is normal under boost. There tuned safe.

Need to use 75 or 80w90 gear oil in a manual trans. And non synthetic. The fill hole is on the side of the trans. Without a pump it's going to be hard and filling through the shifter hole might be easier.

If the charcoal canister is not Hooked up you need a vented gas cap.

Can use mk4 brakes for the rear with a little modding.

Only the supra and Cressida share for the old style. You can see what cars share what if you look at the online epc.

W58 is different between the mk4/sc300 as well.

Top one if you follow the dotted line you'll see it goes to the top of the t stat housing. The other one goes to the back of the water outlet housing iirc. Should be on the other side of the water pump.

It's on here. You can also try pming Rodel. It's the grill insert. Also if you take that out usually the middle will sag.

Zip tie the heater valve up and see if it goes away. That will easily eliminate that component and you can get on to the next. Make sure coolant is full too.

Zip tie the heater valve up and see if it goes away. That will easily eliminate that component and you can get on to the next. Make sure coolant is full too.

Just get stock control arms unless you want adjustable which are the same as stock but adjustable. Can get rear arms from wesbeech. And can get poly bushings from dm or raptor racing. Can also get the subframe bushing from them.

Mine was bent to fit the tsx or tl projectors in my car.

I'd run a 5w30 or 0w30. ESP in a colder climate. No need for a 10w.

Lol.

Happy bday.

Depends what you want and how much money you have. 2j is a better engine but expect to pay atleast 5k min for the swap.

There not the same. Don't think they will even bolt up and the w58 is shorter to and it will move the hole back farther and prolly wouldn't even allow the shifter to go in right. The shifters them self are the same. It's prolly modded for a hurst shifter or something.

No no. The j tube mod is done when you put in an aftermarket high flow fuel pump. The j tube acts as a back up fpr invade the actual fpr fails. It will build too much pressure when you add a bigger pump. Change the pump and do the j tube mod or just bypass it. You don't need a afpr to...

And for the drive shaft just remove the 4 bolts at the diff

Prolly the thrust washer in the trans.