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Ya take the nut off and slide hammer the spindle out. If the inner bearing race comes with it it's easiest to use a cut off wheel and grid a slot in it. Don't go through. And then use a chisel and hammer and get it off. Wear safety glasses too. Pressing the new one in I used the outer bearing...

300 for one side isn't bad. Whole hub has to come off and the bearing has to be pressed out. Could just buy the bearing pull the hub off and take it to a machine shop. FYI its easier to pull the spindle(part with studs) off with a slide hammer with the hub still on the car.

Could be the L shaped heater hose too.

I wouldn't trust a 7m from an importer. But I got my 1j from Jdm engine corp and it was super clean inside and out.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Tial+bov

Just the intake cam is different. You could put a turbo on it but I don't see it lasting long unless you get lucky or don't boost much.

It's been done. It's not cheap tho. Much easier with 2jz and getrag.

Most likely the starter solenoid freezing. Next time it does it bang on it a couple times with a hammer and see if it starts.

I'd keep them. They keep pistons temps down. And are only used after 30-40 psi of oil pressure. The system was designed for them and will have plenty of oil where it needs it everywhere else. If your doing this for oil pressure you should already be shimming the pump 5mm on the relief valve.

Just timing belt and crank gear come off and the seal is behind there. Crank bolt is 243ft lbs.

Front or rear? Front timing belt needs to come off. Rear trans has to come off. Crank stays put.

Unless they changed them the need to be modded in order to fit. And since you have to weld better off just making your own.

Rhdjapan can get more than what they have on the site. You should call them.

Stock oil cooler lines are just reg 3/8ths oil hose. Unless your talking about the metal line. And your better off just piecing your own kit together. The lines are either going to be too short or too long and all of it is cheap quality.

Can't really say how much you will make. It's an 88 so not really one of the more desired years and then you have to take it all apart and wait for people to buy it. Prolly be easier to buy another car that has a blown motor for cheap and swap everything over.

I'd change it with a factory Toyota one.

Fluidyne , pwr , and koyo are the better brands.

I'd try to get a used a turbo either good or with alight play and get a rebuild kit and do it your self if your mechinally inclined. If not just find a decent used one for cheap and don't boost. Cannot use the gte electronics for a na application. It will go nuts.

I think the wider bolt hole measurement is a typo. It's smaller than both the hole and width of the entire piece. Lol.

You can buy the maft pro with map sensor and everything for boost control as one package for around 700. Less if used. Closest thing to a standalone. http://www.maftpro.com/ Iirc there is a forum for help on there too and plenty of people have used it on here.