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What kind of bov do you have? Vented?

Yup np.

You could test the isc to verify its working correctly. Also the rubber piece is to prevent boost from going in there. Na doesn't have it. I'd still get a new one tho. Any codes?

Pull it with the trans. It's 10x easier. It's also easier if you have a load leveler. There about 50$.

Just have the machine shop measure the crank or find a good used one. Toyota would be the only place I'd ever think about trusting for a new one. Rods should be able to be reused just look for one good used one on here to replace the one you spun on.

I just trimmed a sliver of the fender liner off when I rolled mine. Doesn't sag or anything. Maybe a foot or a little more front to back and went in like 3-4 in in the middle. l) sort of like that shape.

No you cannot seeing the bolts the bolt the bell housing to the trans are inside the the housing along with the clutch. If you looked at it you could see that.

Only difference is if the the oil cooler return is blocked nothing will happen. If the turbo oil drain is blocked its going to dump all the oil out the exhaust and cause massive amounts of smoke.

ID get the fuel pump first. Lex housing is cheap. The afpr kit could be cheaper if used. And precision has decently priced injectors new. Cant up more boost with a lex and injectors without a good quality fuel pump to feed the injectors.

I second the above post.

Did the engine run before the bro was installed? Is the efi fuse blown?

Is it metal or something else? Looks just like something made its way into the pan during the build.

Ra is roughness average. The cleaner and flatter the head is the better it's going to seal. Every time you pull the head off it should be machined before it going back on.

The head and block need to be machined to 30ra or better for a mhg.

Brake clean and a air nozzle.

Yes.

I second the jz. Less hassle and more worry free driving. If something breaks its more of a what happened than a what now. But to answer question the pistons can handle 500 as long as you have a good tune. Like at 500 you better have a standalone. Rods can handle more as there forged.

Could get the powered by max ones when they come out and get the softer spring. I have 16/12 spring rates and mine arnt bad for dd on the second softest shock setting.

It's the m1 connector. Mostly for the gauges but can't remember everything that it goes too. It doesn't plug into that other connector to the right in the picture that's not plugged into? Are the grounds on the intake manifold clean and tight?

I know someone who did it. Pretty sure all you have to do is drill a couple holes bigger. And bang the firewall. Sorry don't have anymore.