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oh yea? Well I loooove my early 89 :p This is probably one of the 1st bad "features" if you will, of my specific car.

Thats not really normal to do it in more then 1st gear. I assume your car is stock? If so you might want to check for clogged cats especially the 1st one, an upgrade downpipe may greatly reduce what your speaking of.

Not exactly what I was expecting to see in here. But damn... pretty neat.

Its not a stupid newbie question... at least your trying to learn, unlike some others I've seen. Code 51 is probably due to the TPS (throttle position sensor) being out of calibration. It probably won't cost you anything and is very easy to get to. You need to have a digital ohm meter though...

The problem with retorqing (I think is probably true reading from others) is that it will smash the gasket from where its been sitting the past 15 or whatever years. This could cause it to distort and actually blow much sooner then it would have other wise. Cometic seems like they are the...

I would definitly NOT retorque a stock HG thats on there. For those mods I would go with a new OEM HG kit and some ARP studs. Not as expensive as a MHG job and can hold 300 hp. I think with those mods you should definitly at or over 300 whp. I know your on a budget but going with all...

MKIIITrbo89 - Myself and a few others I noticed from this NY, NJ, PA area are going as well. If we can get a caravan going I think it'd be much easier.

mmk, I got a while till I have the massive amount of money I need with my crap ass job. This will be after my clutch installed, after the wideband, boost controller, turbo timer, etc. So take your time; I just like to know what I'm getting into.

Though it probably won't fix the problem get that code 51 out of there just to start with. It sounds to me like there is something wrong with your AFM. Possibly is covered in oil, or got wet, or could just be totally done. If you know anyone else who has on they know for a fact works right you...

I reciently delt with Curt at Elmhurst Toyota and I personally think his service is much much better then Jay Marks service. Much faster as well. Just thought I'd throw that in there.

What difference does plugging in the HAC sensor make to the way the MAFT operates? Will it perform poorly at high or dramatically changing altitudes? There are a number of ear-popping hills around here.

I'm assuming that the shifter is still the correct diameter where you break it to use the die?

How do you re-thread it to accept threaded knobs again? I have not done te hack job yet because of the fact I couldn't use my TRD knob. Is it hard to do? Pics would be great!

Milenko... you badly need that car lowered man, looks like a 4x4 truck.

personally I'd like to see what the new Blitz R-FIT is going to look like. Not much experience with it yet but it could be another viable option.

Yes, code 51 is the TPS mal-adjusted. Its not too hard to adjust it, just need a ohm meter and some feeler guages. If it is code 41 though you may have to replace it, that code pertains to it shorting out. Someone else who knows more about this specific problem be sure to correct me if I'm...

Well, they are entertaining, haha. Some of the stuff they do is kind of off base and doesn't prove much if anything. But the AC episode I find hard to believe that its defunct, its not that complicated or difficult of an experiment.

I know for sure that there is an exhaust leak right at the turbo elbow somewhere. I'm just waiting for the gaskets I ordered.(either 02 sensor, at the turbo, or at the downpipe) The fact that you mentioned your clutch is kind of intriguing also. My clutch at the moment is completely worn down...

If you wanted to pull off the motors still, in the TSRM I know I saw before where it describes the angles of the pin for the different settings too.

And I remember in that episode prior to doing the test theoretically they said AC should go further in a lab type condition. But in the real world they disproved themselves when the windows went like 5 laps farther or something I believe.